Hawaii Surf Journal

Smallish lani's Again, Sunny and Beautiful North Shore Living!

Yesterday morning got out to "the" spot lately, Lani's. It has been waist-head high for several days now, and I have been going every day at some point. Sooo beautiful yesterday, sunny, warm glassy waves. It was crowded, but it was good to see my friend Bill out there dominating. He deserves it!!!

One post surf session pic:

2007 Lunar Eclipse

I stayed up until 2am watching the Lunar Eclispe last night. Took a TOn of pictures, finally got to use all those fancy shutter setting on my camera.

Check it out:

Two Wave Hold Down!!!

Lightning never strikes twice, today was no exception, but that's ok. Seomtimes it's better that way.

Today started out the harbor and it didn't look glassy like yesterday, or as big. Wanted one spot, but there were a few paddlers. Went back to the same left as yesterday but completly different story, half the size, and pretty blown....Caught a few and bailed back to the first were the paddlers went in and it was still 6-10 foot. Caught 4 great waves, 6-8 footers all the way across and clean on the face....yesss

Set of the day rears up and its mine, about 10 foot, I get whipped in perfect but I'm too confident so I fade deeper, big mistake!! Just get exploded in the bowl, lip right behind/on top of me (not sure which) and launches me way in the air, then I just get thrashed for a long while. I feel myself all the way on the bottom, so i keep relaxing waiting for it to stop pushing me down, but I'm just pinned to the bottom by a strong current underwater. Finally I decide to push off the bottom and take like 6 swims up before I see light, a few more swims and finally make it to the surface and get a half split second of air before the next one tags me....i came up seeing stars, but throughly stoked over what was almost a two wave hold down. :)

Banged up knee somewhere in there, its sore, but STILL STOKED!!!

Epic, Big Blue Second and Third Reef Tow-In Perfection

Got up predawn, outthe harbor around 7...soo glassy this morning....This one left was great when we first got there, I got two closeout 10 footers, then a barrel on a 7? footer, it was breaking so good. Fun cut short by paddlers, but we both got 2 epic ones first.

Went down and shot two sets on vid at himmis, it was thirs reef I think, anyways you'll see the vid in a few days....

After that went down to outside alli rock, sunny, blue water 7-12 foot beautiful, only one other to share at first. I got this one 10-12 footer right that felt giant, and I was under the lip on it for a moment, super smooth face. Every time I think about that wave I smile...Also driver error made me wipe and the board went all the way in, we drove to the beach at marijuanas and I walked down and found it at leftovers keyhole paddle out. Thank god not another lost board.

As we came it it looked real choppy and sucky at the contest, but we scored!!!

Fun 2-4 Foot Rights and Lefts

Yesterday surfed a lesser surfed spot that was, dare I say, reeeally fun. 2-4 foot rights, had my friends Scotty and Siri out there with me, and local old gruff Jeff. Started out at the default left, which was alright on the minus low tide, but it was twice as big over at the right.

Had a few stright up hits and one great under the lip snap that made my day. Surfed 12-1:30, just in time to go pick up my daughter from school at 1:45.

Going snowbaording for a week....alooha!

Supa Fun Little Lefts, Truck Cam

Christian and I got out the other day, (I think it was Saturday) just the two of us at our favorite little spot. He set up the truck cam, where he just leaves the camera rolling from his cam, and got this fun little video of the session. My favorite wave is the one I go switchfoot and almost get in the tube.....
Check it:

4-5 foot long rippable lefts

-10:30 am. eotr was warbly, but some real good ones (considering the crowd) coming through the outside reef and the middle too, about 4-5 foot, with a few 6 foot closeout sets. Only me plus 1-3 friends, and a 1 other regular.

Highlight was 2 barrels, and the wave count was high too, so gratefull to surf a warm no shirt session of lefts like this one. Loving life....Not every wave was perfect, but the good ones would come every 10-15 minutes, and they were good for at least an overhead turn or two on the shortboard.
At 10:30 the trades blew it out completly, but we were happy

4-5 foot strong right walls, almost alone!!

same spot for the third day in a row. Once again it looked shiity from the beach. This time it turned into 4-5 glass, just me and 1-2 other guys, cleaned up big time. So insane, i was catching a wave in every set, it was several feet overhead, and then the sunset was just orange and purple. Unbeleivable session, dont even mind not surfing today after that one, watching my kiddo, looked good everywhere though....

Fun rights all by myself, very rippable

Went back to the same place as yesterday, 9-10:30 . Lightest east breeze giving it a little texture, but it was bigger than yesterday. Just me and two randoms again. A little inconsistent, but when they came you got a nice head-oh right wall. Overall super stoked to catch a bunch of fun waves when there are 40 people at rockies duking it out for about the same size, and I was at a beach that was empty.

Sunny and warm too...

Exremely fun 3 foot walls

1-3 pm, overcast,no wind shoulder to head high rights. When I got there I looked out and it looked kind of marginal, nobody out at all. shows how different it can be from the water. Anyways just me and then these 2 guys joined me. Hard to line up, but I was using my lineups and managed to catch choke super fun waves. Couple waves were like head high, 3-4 manuver waves, nice steep right walls. Extremely rippable shape.

I was laughing cause the two other guys were sitting like 20 feet outside of me and I was catching wave after wave and there were getting almost none. They were complaining to each other how shitty it was and I was reaping, such a beautiful session. Even on days when you think its gonna suck sometimes you get surprised.

My two friends surfed out the same spot in the morning when the tsunami hit. They said the reef drained dry 3 times, then went high tide every three minutes.

Navie's comes to life, a little bit anyways

eve got out to "navies", very close to armies, but only gets good 1-3 times a year. Can't really say it was all time, but it was inconsistent head-oh on the bombs, and barreling when they came in. Saw the 1 other guy out get a nice tuuube, I got 2 but no exits. overall stoked with a very short 1 hour session. Dead glass, sunny, light offshore, 3-4 pm.

Beautiful see through 2 foot waves over shallow reef

Went with the familia to a nearby beach, brought the LB for the hell of it, even though the report was 1-2. Crystal clear, see through water, sandy beach looked like a corona commercial. There was a waist high wave breaking outside, on a shallow reef, maybe a 3 minute paddle out. Even though it was tiny, it was amazing when you ride the wave over foot deep water and see the reef passing under you clearly, end then gliding over this sandy little 10 foot deep channel with fish swimming around under you. Sooo beautiful. Amazing the stoke you can get from waist high when the conditions are just right.

Lani's 2-3 occ 4, better than expected

pastures had great shape this afternoon 2-4pm, rights and lefts working real good. looked crowded from the beach, but when I got out it was pretty spread and the skill level wasnt too high, I got plenny. unexpected oh clean waves!!!!

Moonrise

Yesterday we BBqed in nmokuleia and the most beautiful moonrise occured:

Glassy West Swell 3-5 foot lefts all morning long

Went down to a spot I love, long lefts reeling like a pointbreak. It was a little more crowded and inconsistent than usual today, but I still got my fair share. Got two good pics, one of an empty wave, another from the overhead view:
Click for full sized Hawaiian secret Spot Pics: