May 31, 2003
Double Overhead + Leftovers
Saturday Morning: Swell is still holding big time. Lani's looked pretty epic, but after checking it all over the place went out at Leftovers again. Almost as big as yesterday, but dead glass this time. I would say it was 6-7 foot solid.
Every wave was pretty much peeling all the way through from the peak. It was crowded, but somehow I still got plenty of waves. Very, very good session! Perfect direction for the spot.
Surfed with Akel, Glenn and Christain, saw Chip in the water.
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Afternoon session: Went to a secret spot near my house. 4-5 foot + sets, a little bumpy, peeling for about a 100 yards on the better waves. Just me and da boys out sharing waves.
Had some cold beers chilling in the car, which were excellent after all the waves we caught. BBQ time at Christian's !!!!
At the BBQ I kept nodding off, I was so beat from all the surfing we did.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:12 AM | Comments (1)
May 30, 2003
Leftovers evening session 6-8 bigger
Leftovers evening session 6 occ possibly 8-9 foot plus sets. I've never seen leftovers look like that before, maxed out and peeling all the way through. I surfed my 7' 0", ended up catching a bunch of waves, like 200 yard rides on some of them.
This one big set actually scared me a bit, I thought I was getting caught inside. The sets would feather way outside, drawing the pack out.
A few minutes later I caught a huge one, felt like I was dropping in forever, it took forever to get to the bottom of that wave, I was shaking from adrenaline after that one. Saw my friend Christian catch a sick one too, probaly seven foot. Truly an epic session.........This is summertime?
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:12 PM | Comments (0)
Aloha Friday 3-4 Foot Morning session out back
Swell is hitting! Surfed behind my house, 4 foot really rippable lefts walls coming in, with an occasional short right. Very light crowd, 6-7 guys from the hood out there, but not really interferring with my wave count, which was pretty high.
Rode my 6'3" Merrick, magic board for the conditions. Almost landed a big air, hit a few vert lips. I love it when the wave just sets up perfectly so your just looking up at that lip then WHAM!
Swell was picking up, probaly have to get a afternoon session too later. STOKED!
I haven't posted any pics lately because my floppy drive broke so I cant transfer piccies.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:23 AM | Comments (0)
May 29, 2003
Solo Waist-Shoulder high glass
Surfed a spot behind my house alone again, this time on a longboard. Bout waist-shoulder high, some really long rights and slopey lefts.
Super calm, glassy conditions, not a soul around. Stayed out for about an hour, caught choke waves.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:44 PM | Comments (1)
May 28, 2003
Small, but perfect Val's Reef
Woke up and saw it was small so I worked in the morning. I was almost glad it was small because I was so surfed out after the last couple days, I was ready for a rest. But around 1:30 I was ready for a surf session.
Ended up at Val's reef, super perfect and bowly waist-chest high righthand peaks. I surfed my 5'11" Epoxy fish, perfect for the tiny, rippable conditions. It's amazing how the smallest wave can break top to bottom like that.
At first it was just me and a tourist who was renting a longboard sharing, but people saw us catching fun ones so people kept coming out, I eventually cut the session short when 3 groms and a longboarder with big belly surrounded me on the peak....
Swell forecasted to come in on Friday! It just won't stop!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:23 PM | Comments (0)
May 27, 2003
Head high glass session
The swell is on the decline, but still holding for a great session.
Surfed from about 8-11 right behind my house, total warm water glass at first, a light bump near the end of the sesion from seabreezes.
Shoulder-head high solid, just 3-4 of us spread out pretty good, really consistent lefts and rights both. The rights were more juicy, right off the drop it would give you speed to come right back up to the lip, but after that first hit it was over. The lefts were more slopey and longer, you really had to pump to get speed, but it was there to be had.
I was able to catch as many waves as I wanted, full on wave-fest.
Overall score, excellent session, my arms are noodles again today.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:16 PM | Comments (1)
May 26, 2003
Outer Reef Secret spot 4-5 foot
The bump up in surf they have been predicting finally hit this morning.
Me and a neighbor went to secret spot outer reef/cloudbreak near us, it was catching all the swell, looked like about triple the size of all the spots around it.
It was glassy at first then seabreeze came on after a while, but it was really fun, about 4 occ 5 foot. A slopey wave, the rights would peel for a good distance. my arms are noodles after that session. We scored! Stoked......caught lots of waves.
The wind is on it everywhere now.....heavy seabreezes coming in....BBQ and beer time.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:18 PM | Comments (0)
May 25, 2003
Small, but fun swell continues
1-2 with 2 or 3 - 3 foot sets, glassy solo session at a secret spot by my house for a while then shared it with 2 others, definetly not as big as these waves at DHLH, but still very fun.
Almost didn't go out but glad I did cause I caught choke waves, small but punchy.
Everyones happy, cool, not bad for a Sunday.......Seek and ye shall find......
Update: right before dark I swear I saw some head high sets coming in, maybe tommorow early.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:04 AM | Comments (0)
May 24, 2003
Surfing Blogs/Journals
I decided to see if I could find any other surfing blogs.
Heres one (not a pure surfr blog, but nice): slavin.org
Wavelust is a great surf journal
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:57 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Memorial Day Weekend: Small Surf
The surf has dropped, it only looks like about 1-2 out front right now.
The Surf Into Summer contest by Local Motion is going on today and the entire Memerial weekend at Bowls, I'm thinking about driving down, buying a T-shirt and surfing bowls for 20 minutes with 4 other guys. The report and the south shore cam look like it's about 2 foot down there.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:14 AM | TrackBack
May 23, 2003
Surf has dropped since yesterday
The surf has really dropped since last night, it's only about 1-3 foot out there now.
It was really glassy this morning, looks like the trades are starting to pick up. Back to work I guess!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:15 AM | TrackBack
May 22, 2003
Evening session at Holtons
The North Shore was still holding 4 foot sets when I went for the afternoon session. Holtons was getting it the best, 4-5 foot sets coming in. Everyone said it was exctualy better out there yesterday when chunsreef.net got a bunch of pictures, but I thought it was till good. Lots of paddleing around out there when you get caught inside. Towards the end everyone paddled in and we had it to ourselves.
The outlook looks good for tommorow, probably be a little smaller, but at least 3 feet I would guess.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:09 PM | Comments (0)
Secret Spot Down Patrol Glassy 3 1/2 feet
Surfed 6:45 to about 9, 2-3, occ 3 1/2, nobody out down patrol.
Got woken up early with a phone call, a look outside revealed glassy conditions in my side of country, same size as yesterday.
Went to secret spot left that's like a little rocky point, but better I think. I even got a killer little tuberide on one. Surfed the first hour 1/2 alone, then two guys paddled out and shared a few with me. It seemed to get more consistent when they paddled out, but the trades came up eventually and we called it a session.
Wave count was extremly high, waves were rippable, a very fun session, I'm sure the country is good right now, but I'm done till later.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:50 AM
May 21, 2003
Evening sesion Val Reef - Sunset
Went back over to the country, it picked up since the morning, solid 4 foot sets coming in at lanis. Gas chambers looked ok, pretty crowded, I decided to pass.
I could see nice waves peeling in all the way through when i pulled up to Sunset. I could also see head high plus waves peaking up at Val's reef. Fun session at both Val's and Sunset. Christian was out there but I guess I missed him.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:59 PM | Comments (0)
Sunset @ Puena Point
Sunset at Puena Point, perfect after a long day of surfing...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:47 PM | Comments (2)
Fun Lani's and Holtons Session
Surfed Laniakea about 2-3, maybe some bigger ones, then paddles over to Holtons for a few. It was a little bigger over there, and my friend Martin was out so we shared a few by ourselves before I swam in.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:40 PM | Comments (0)