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May 30, 2003
Leftovers evening session 6-8 bigger
Leftovers evening session 6 occ possibly 8-9 foot plus sets. I've never seen leftovers look like that before, maxed out and peeling all the way through. I surfed my 7' 0", ended up catching a bunch of waves, like 200 yard rides on some of them.
This one big set actually scared me a bit, I thought I was getting caught inside. The sets would feather way outside, drawing the pack out.
A few minutes later I caught a huge one, felt like I was dropping in forever, it took forever to get to the bottom of that wave, I was shaking from adrenaline after that one. Saw my friend Christian catch a sick one too, probaly seven foot. Truly an epic session.........This is summertime?
Posted by hawaiisurf at May 30, 2003 11:12 PM