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May 28, 2003
Small, but perfect Val's Reef
Woke up and saw it was small so I worked in the morning. I was almost glad it was small because I was so surfed out after the last couple days, I was ready for a rest. But around 1:30 I was ready for a surf session.
Ended up at Val's reef, super perfect and bowly waist-chest high righthand peaks. I surfed my 5'11" Epoxy fish, perfect for the tiny, rippable conditions. It's amazing how the smallest wave can break top to bottom like that.
At first it was just me and a tourist who was renting a longboard sharing, but people saw us catching fun ones so people kept coming out, I eventually cut the session short when 3 groms and a longboarder with big belly surrounded me on the peak....
Swell forecasted to come in on Friday! It just won't stop!
Posted by hawaiisurf at May 28, 2003 04:23 PM