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June 19, 2003
4-5 foot threes
This is the biggest town swell i have ever personally witnessed,...
Driving into town past the airport I could see these huge waves with offshore's blowing spray back like 3 times the height of the waves..
Then, after wasting choke time I finally arrived at kaiser lot, but couldnt decide where to surf, just standing there, bowls looked just too nuts for me, 6-8 foot mackers, kaisers looked crappy, and so did 4's. I saw this guy mooch who told me threes was the call so I sprinted down for last minute waves.
Surfed 4-5 occ almost 5.5 foot waaay overgunned on my 7'2". Didn't paddle out until like 6:30, but got a few real fun ones, including my last wave which I had to duck like 5 waves until I was the last one all the way out there and I got the bomb set all the way through in almost darkness!!
Looooong perfect waves....
I talked to my friend who surfed outside castles, said it was like 8 foot sets out there, really good. He drives the submarine shuttle that goes by kaisers he had a friend drop him off, said he was surfing like a mile out. I saw those bomb sets from far, it looked amazing.
I also looked at diamond head, it was like really huge out there, 8 - 10 foot...
I'm going to the mainland for 10 days tommorow, hope you all score plenny waves manana!!!!!
On the news they were taking pics of surfers at Point panic to prosecute them and apparently confiscate thier boards!(according to the news)..4 people got rescued today...
Posted by hawaiisurf at June 19, 2003 12:34 AM