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June 19, 2003
4-5 foot threes
This is the biggest town swell i have ever personally witnessed,...
Driving into town past the airport I could see these huge waves with offshore's blowing spray back like 3 times the height of the waves..
Then, after wasting choke time I finally arrived at kaiser lot, but couldnt decide where to surf, just standing there, bowls looked just too nuts for me, 6-8 foot mackers, kaisers looked crappy, and so did 4's. I saw this guy mooch who told me threes was the call so I sprinted down for last minute waves.
Surfed 4-5 occ almost 5.5 foot waaay overgunned on my 7'2". Didn't paddle out until like 6:30, but got a few real fun ones, including my last wave which I had to duck like 5 waves until I was the last one all the way out there and I got the bomb set all the way through in almost darkness!!
Looooong perfect waves....
I talked to my friend who surfed outside castles, said it was like 8 foot sets out there, really good. He drives the submarine shuttle that goes by kaisers he had a friend drop him off, said he was surfing like a mile out. I saw those bomb sets from far, it looked amazing.
I also looked at diamond head, it was like really huge out there, 8 - 10 foot...
I'm going to the mainland for 10 days tommorow, hope you all score plenny waves manana!!!!!
On the news they were taking pics of surfers at Point panic to prosecute them and apparently confiscate thier boards!(according to the news)..4 people got rescued today...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:34 AM | Comments (0)
June 17, 2003
Town, Hawaii Kai 4-6 foot
South swell is hitting so I drove to town, haven't surfed in about a week.....
Surfed a spot I've never surfed before but have heard good reports of.
Located near Hawaii Kai with a view of Koko head crater, featuring extra long lefts. Very nice waves with a view of another spot that is famous for waves breaking right next to a wall, rhymes with "sina walls."
About 4 foot, with a 1-2 sets near 5-6 foot (only stayed out 1 hour). Paddled out arount 5 pm, caught 3 good waves right off the bat, each one had a nice long ride, with a pretty critical takeoff, I got pitted on one one( not barreled though). I saw this one guy get 2 barrels in a row, he was STOKED. The tide was getting really high, the waves lulled out I didn't get one for like 45 minutes, I got cold so i paddled in eventually.
This one 4-5 wave double overhead set came in about 25 minutes into the session. I was caught a little inside, but ended up in position. I saw this one guy spin around late and take off right in the lip of the 2nd wave of the set and make it to the bottom, Hairball! Inspired, I myself spun around on the 3rd wave of the set, super late take-off on the almost double overheader with my 6'6". Made it to the bottom, dug a rail and tried to punch out the back. I almost made it, I got my head above water for one one second for a gulp of air then I went back over the falls for the rinse cycle!
This spot DEFINETLY has got potential for a epic session, but today was not my day. I did get 3-4 really fun ones, but I was feeling to cold and shivers by the end. That lull killed my session.
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On another note, I am going to work on Garret Macnamara's website in exchange for big wave training and possibly a tow in session or two! I am very excited to say the least!!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:13 PM | Comments (1)
June 16, 2003
Summertime: Its still flat!!!
I swear, feast or famine, not even anything in town.
I have been snorkeling a bunch of the breaks, it's freakin amazing down there!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:04 AM | Comments (0)
June 12, 2003
Pretty much flat
I haven't updated because the surf has been pretty much flat for the last two days. It got windy actually this morning and there is a little windswell wave coming in at times, but it's pretty blown out and small, maybe chest high sets, no good.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:25 PM | Comments (0)
June 08, 2003
6 foot plus at Browns - South Shore
Drove to town, went straight to Diamond Head, every spot had swell with a leetle sideshore bump, but still pretty good conditions.
Lighthouse looked 4-5+, Cliffs was 4-6, and Brown's was solid 4-6 occ plus.
Paddled out at Brown's for some South shore juice! That spot really picks up the swell more than the surrounding spots, it sticks way out the hell out there.
It was a bit crowded out there, but semi-spread out as the peak was shifting around.
Caught 4-5 good ones, including one were I was farthest out and deepest from the pack when the set came, then shifted right to me. The crowd inside was scattering to get out of my way as I dropped in way outside, came through the pack then rode it as it peeled all the way down until it was like 2 foot, probaly turned off the top 6-7 times on that one...totaly stoked...
I got caught inside and got one of the bigger sets right on my head, probaly a 6-7 footer. I almost bailed my 7'0" but held on instead, which was good because it let me up pretty easy after an initial intense shake-up. I
Pretty stoking session, considering I only caught probaly 10 waves or so.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:14 PM | Comments (4)
June 07, 2003
Suicides 3-4 foot
Heard about the town swell so I drove in:
Ala Moana Bowls and Kaisers check: kind of really bumpy looking, but got size. Bowls was pretty amazing looking, probaly 4-5 foot sets.
Got the call that Sucides was fun, so i went there instead. Luckily found parking with a friend who lives near to the spot.
Waves were 3-4 foot, definetly with some bump on it, but the medium sized waves would peel all the way through. I actually caught 2 waves wide that connected all the way through past Graveyards, cool!
The swell was pretty strong so a few 4-5 footers came through and closed everything out.
Crowd wasn't too bad, maybe 10-12 guys at first then only 6 at the end, which is when it actually cleaned up a little bit and got really good. Good session!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:58 AM | Comments (2)
June 05, 2003
Evenin session 3-4 foot glass, but inconsistent
Went out for a evening glass off session with some boddies who drove up from town at a spot at the end of the road. About 3-4 foot, ultra glass, with a few bomb sets that caught everyone inside. Pretty fun, but it got reaalll inconsistent after a while, so we surfed the shorebreak for a few, which was actually kind of fun.
It was really high tide, this right across from the break which is normally just a closeout-reef shelf was looking like V-land or something. We had all already finished surfing so we just watched it for a while. I kind of wished I had paddled out for a few, it looked pretty epic. One of those "once in a blue moon" type breaks.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:45 PM | Comments (0)
4 foot glassy NW swell: Is this Summer?
Morning session: NW Swell is till holding strong! 4 foot glass behind the house. Hour and a half session with a neighbor and a few others. Not quite as roping as last night, but pretty close.
Didn't eat my usual bowl of Wheaties before surf and was just dragging out there, so I called it quits, plus a little bump came on it from seabreezes.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:11 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
June 04, 2003
4-5 foot evening glass off
The swell seemed to build all day, but up until 4:30 there was a seabreeze bump screwing things up. Right around 5 this rain storm came through rained like hell and when it was over the entire ocean was glass.
Paddled out with a friend, then a neighbor joined us too:
consistent 4-5 foot west swell looking glassy lefts right before dark, incredible sunset to go with it too. Some of the wave were connecting sooo long. I caught a insider that just kept peeling along the reef for like over 100 yards. I didn't really stop paddling the entire session. Epic.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:13 PM | Comments (0)
Solo session picking up 2-4
2 hour solo session behind my house, 2-3 at first, 2-4 at the end.
First thing this morning looked really glassy and flat. I was sitting at my desk and I keep hearing these waves, so I would jump up and take a look and see a decent set coming in. I checked the Waimea Buoy and it definetly jumped up at about 6 am, 10 sec peroids, so I could stand it no longer and decided to paddle out.
Glad I did too; At first I was stoked when shoulder high sets started coming in, but then bigger and bigger sets started stacking up, yes!!! All to myself too. Caught choke waves. Unfortunately the onshore seabreeze kept getting stronger and stronger chopping it up.
yea baby!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:55 PM | Comments (0)
June 03, 2003
Surf finally went tiny
Flatness relief: Early season west swell, nobody out(not today)
Summertime is here, it's ridelable on a longboard, but only waist high on sets, I'm going to pass.
Today is the first time I haven't surfed in 9 days, not bad!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:47 PM | Comments (2)
June 02, 2003
3 foot longboarding behind the house
Morning session 2-3 foot glassy waves around my house, really fun, head high on sets.
i took out the longboard.
I saw an accidental coffin occur, laughed my ass off then that was my move for the day, I never knew how fun that could be, but it requires absolutley NO effort, what a relaxing ride!
Not a bad session......lots of waves coming through for everybody.
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I went out right before dark at Log Cabins for a few waves, caught of bunch but none really lined up for me except the one where a bodyboarder dropped in on me. Only about 2 foot.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:27 AM | Comments (0)
June 01, 2003
3-4 foot I brought the crowd
Sunday morning: Surfed behind my house again, but this time all da boys(and Nani) came over. 3-4 foot, peeling lefts and short rights, very rippable. I defintely brought the crowd with me:
Christian, Glenn, Nobu, Akel, Nani, Fred and I shared the waves for about 2 1/2 hours, very fun waves.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:24 AM | Comments (0)