« Summertime: Its still flat!!! | Main | 4-5 foot threes »
June 17, 2003
Town, Hawaii Kai 4-6 foot
South swell is hitting so I drove to town, haven't surfed in about a week.....
Surfed a spot I've never surfed before but have heard good reports of.
Located near Hawaii Kai with a view of Koko head crater, featuring extra long lefts. Very nice waves with a view of another spot that is famous for waves breaking right next to a wall, rhymes with "sina walls."
About 4 foot, with a 1-2 sets near 5-6 foot (only stayed out 1 hour). Paddled out arount 5 pm, caught 3 good waves right off the bat, each one had a nice long ride, with a pretty critical takeoff, I got pitted on one one( not barreled though). I saw this one guy get 2 barrels in a row, he was STOKED. The tide was getting really high, the waves lulled out I didn't get one for like 45 minutes, I got cold so i paddled in eventually.
This one 4-5 wave double overhead set came in about 25 minutes into the session. I was caught a little inside, but ended up in position. I saw this one guy spin around late and take off right in the lip of the 2nd wave of the set and make it to the bottom, Hairball! Inspired, I myself spun around on the 3rd wave of the set, super late take-off on the almost double overheader with my 6'6". Made it to the bottom, dug a rail and tried to punch out the back. I almost made it, I got my head above water for one one second for a gulp of air then I went back over the falls for the rinse cycle!
This spot DEFINETLY has got potential for a epic session, but today was not my day. I did get 3-4 really fun ones, but I was feeling to cold and shivers by the end. That lull killed my session.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On another note, I am going to work on Garret Macnamara's website in exchange for big wave training and possibly a tow in session or two! I am very excited to say the least!!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at June 17, 2003 10:13 PM
Comments
wow... now there's a pretty good trade. how'd you get hooked up with that one?
Posted by: sean at June 18, 2003 06:24 AM