September 28, 2003
Holtons'a nd Behind the house
Biggest swell of the winter so far! hehe
Surfed mrning session behind the house, 2-3 foot, pretty small really, but uncrowded.
2nd session caught Holton's 3-4 , loto waves coming through with my buddy Vic, very fun!!
That was yesterday, this morning it looks like 3-4 plus out there, I will report again after i surf!
September 23, 2003
Learning to Towsurf
This morning a new swell rolled in, 3'4'. Surfed over at a secret spot just me and da boyz. It was a little inconsistent but then we would have the pick of the sets when they came in.
I was driving back over to country for a second surf when I got the call "we're taking the skis out" from Garrett. Launched the ski and went to a secret spot and trained on the 3- 3 1/2 foot wave, this peak really near the beach with a short left, and a longer right. On the inside of the wave the shelf was really shallow, like 2 feet deep only.
Robbie and Garret went first, with Robbie doing a flip on one wave, and a few smaller airs on others, then garret, who probaly went the fastest on his board getting whipped in. He was doing the best really, ripping it. This one wave he got whipped at going top speed, went like 30-40 feet past the wave then carved and went the other way, a bunch of lips, ripping it.
Brian went next, then me. I had to use Garretts board which has straps set up for regular foot, but I'm goofy, so we just loosened them up. It was hard to figure out which side of the wake to go on some times.
Getting back on the sled at speed was hard, and other technical details were practiced a bit, overall I felt like I did pretty good, even though we did fall off the ski a few times when three of us rode at the same time.
Ice is broken, yes!!!
On another note, I went to the Hawaii state Tow surfing safety -certification class on Saturday, Ken Bradshaw, Archie Kalepa, and Jim Howe were the instructors. Pretty much we went over the laws relating to tow-in surfing in Hawaii, equipment requirements, where and when you can go towing in. We also went over some risk management think techniques, like being a risk-technician rather than a risk-taker. Very interesting stuff, I may post some of it here.
September 11, 2003
1st Country Swell of the season!
Surfed waist - chest high behind my house nobody out longboard session for about 2 hours. After I came in I looked again there were like head-high sets coming in with three guys out. Finally!! I haven't surfed behind my house for months.
Caldwell was right on the money with his forecast of the first swell arriving today. 3 more weeks till the first double overheader supposedly.
September 08, 2003
I'm not the only one doing rock carry's!
Look like I'm not the only one doing rock carry's!!!
check it: http://www.angelfire.com/hi2/MamaJamaSus/yellow/surf.html
Supposed south swell coming tommorow or something, I'm not getting my hopes up...
September 06, 2003
From Pat Caldwell's Hawaii surf forecast:
The climatological average based on 1968-2002 for the first double-overhead swell on north shores for the new season is 9/17 +/- 9 days. For high surf levels (15 feet face), the average is 9/26 +/- 12 days. The first Waimea day (25+ face) averages to 11/11 +/- 28 days.
Sooooon!!!! Its coming!!!
September 04, 2003
Heavy Rock Carry's
Training continues at Shark's Cove. These days we usually leave our fins at the top, its really just as easy getting down without them.
We have also found some new, bigger rocks to carry around. My booty is actually sore today from lifting those heavy rocks then running with them, its like underwater squats, 35 feet down!
Another twist(we get bored carrying the same rocks around every time): the rock-tow. One guy carrys the rock, and another guy holds on to his shorts and gets "towed." Underwater tow-ins!!
Something I have discovered about the holding my breath: Often times I will swim down to the rock, and when I get there, it feels like I'm already out of breath, I want to come back up. Instead I just ignore the feeling and keep going, walking all the way across the sand. It's like mind over matter, you learn to ignore the uncomfortable feeling of being low on air.
September 01, 2003
Town surf: Big Rights
Surfed big rights yesterday with my friend scott. About 1-3.5, pretty inconsistent, but still fun on the sets.
Hurricane Jimenez is supposed to send some south swell our way, but I'm not so excited, it looks pretty close to the island, we will see....