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October 03, 2003
First Big swell of the season
Yowza!! Buoys pinging off the richter all night. Contemplating tow-ins but it wasn't big enough. Met garrett at Sunset, he paddled out to the 6-10 foot on a single fin brewer gun with no leash plug.
It was a bit lumpy out there, so I went to a spot near Kahuku where I scored solid 6-7 foot glassy lefts, only 4-5 guys out. Epic session for me, caught so many waves on my 7'2", got two tubes, one of which I had a monster room with a view, the other I was pitted but not deep, STOKED!!!
For my afternoon session, I paddled out at Lani's it was 6-8 foot glass. The swell had cleaned up since the morning, Triple overhead rights where rolling through. It was crowded, I only got about 4 waves, but it was an experience just seeing the waves, so big and perfect.
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 3, 2003 10:11 AM