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October 29, 2003
2-3 occ 4 dawn patrol glass -
My friend Chris L. met me at my house for a dawny. Went straight to the spot: 2-3 occ 4 foot waves, all lefts, sheet glass, nobody out except maybe one other guy for 2 hours. The best waves came in the beginning when it was just him and I, 4 foot bombs that doubled up and barreled. Score!
Time to work....
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:08 AM | Comments (0)
October 26, 2003
3-4 Foot uncrowded Secret Spot - Gemini Surfboards
Surfed 3' - 4' occasional 4 1/2' foot secret spot near my house this morning a little hung-over from Christain's party last night.
As I drove by I saw my friend filming from his yard so I pulled in to say hello. He let me borrow a Gemini Board of his, so I paddled out to the glassy lefts with only 4 other guys out! Stoked!
Jeff Alexander of Gemini Surfboards was out there too, we had 2 Geminis in the lineup. Eventually it was just him and I sharing waves.
Jeff and the Gemini
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:33 AM | Comments (1)
October 25, 2003
6 Foot Glass
Saturday morning surfed Day***r double overhead and sheet glass. I was getting over a sinus infection so I wasn't 100%, but somehow I managed to avoid getting caught inside my entire session! There were about 20 guys out, but you could sit a little inside of them and get the sets that swung wide.
The good ones would peel for about 100 yards or so, I goy about 3-4 good ones.
One pic from far away (this spot breaks far out)
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:25 AM | Comments (0)
October 22, 2003
2-3 occ 4 foot Secret Spot
Surfed my favorite little secret spot, the rippable left near my casa. Surfed a morning and evening session out there, never more than 4-5 other people in the water both times.
Managed to ding my board paddling out the 2nd time. I cut a corner near this exposed reef right on the inside where the waves start breaking and then suddenly I was dry docked!
Yesterday I surfed Logs before dark, it was uper crowded, didn't get many waves, took one pic:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:20 PM | Comments (0)
October 21, 2003
3-4 Foot Out There
I haven't surfed yet, but I got one sweet pic:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:35 PM | Comments (0)
4-5 glassy secret spot, Chunky 4-5 foot Logs
Morning session: behind the house 4-5 foot glass, super consistent. I took my 6'2" out, but wasn't feeling the love, A bit undergunned for some reason. Still, fun, bive waves with few people.
Evening session met Christain at logs, he filmed cause he is still sore from towing on Sat. Got some real fun ones, but it was pretty chunky out there.
Only one pic of me, wierd bottom turn:
Beautiful Sunset:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:01 AM | Comments (0)
October 18, 2003
8-10 Foot Tow In Session
Friday evening: the buoys are up to 6-7 feet 20 seconds, which means at least 6-8, it's on for tommorow morning. The plan is meet at Garrett's house at 6:30, were going towing!! I had to do a last minute scramble with the tow-board Christain and I split on because the foot-strap inserts were set to far forward, Garrett had Charlie Walker put in the correct insert. I picked it up and stopped by Garrett's to get it completly ready friday evening, and went to bed early.
I wasn't even nervous the next morning until I passed Lani and got a view of the waves: it was SOLID 8-10 foot. Went with Jeff (who is going to video), met Christain and Da boyz at Garretts to help load the ski.
It was about 8-10 foot out there, and Garrett and Ikaika took there runs first for about an hour. They were killing it of course. As I sat on the beach waiting for my turn I was slightlky nervous, but it wasn't really that big to be nervous about. There were actually two guys out there paddleing in also.
Finally, it'smy turn. Garrett actually had this lady from SoBe/Pepsi sitting on the ski with him as he towed me in.
Let me say that this was one of the most amazing session I have even had in my life. Garrett is a master of whipping you into the waves, he drives that ski like a true master. I was literally riding the waves for what fely like 20 seconds before it would even start to break. I got 4 really long rights at Rev*****'s, like minute long rides, it was peeling all the way in. but my best wave was a left at Pha******'s. I almost got tubed, but I was really being conservative, I didn't want to fall.
I could only last about 25 minutes before my legs just wanted to give out, getting dragged around on the ski takes an incredible tooll on your arms and logs. I am still really sore three days later as I write this.
Garrett is marketing his signature tow board, which is what I got, and was incredible to ride 8 foot waves with complete control. 6'2" , about 17 " wide, and about 14 lbs with a really wide tail and flat rocker. That board is a dream board, I was pumping this one from behind a huge section, and I made it.
Fear factor? nope, it was so easy it was ridiculous. Of course I didn't need to drive at all, I just went riding, but still. The training paid off, but I defietly want more!
That's my blue board in the front, just cruising before the session:
I only took one pic of the waves myself:
Da Boys:
North Shore Power Portfolios also took pictures of this session
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:50 PM | Comments (0)
October 17, 2003
Fun, uncrowded "chamesh's"
Swell has been starting to hit! 3-5 was the report, went down and surfed a "secret spot" that is visible from the road. shoulder-head high, just Christian, Jesse and myself out. Caught a few at "reppu-s" before I paddled over.
Been trying to get my Tow-in Board ready for tommorow, it's supposed to be 10 foot, no wind (!). The board I got has the inserts for the footstraps really wide, "Laid Hamilton-style," so i am getting another insert put in, should be ready today, hopefully.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:04 AM | Comments (0)
October 13, 2003
Small Pupukea Surf Pics
Small kine surf pics; Went down to help Sage get some waves at Pupes, he is 8. I pushed him into this one:
Groms having fun:
Click for bigger pic:
Older grom(me) having fun:
On christian's pig-fish:
Christian:
Small but kinda fun surf, Hope you liked the surf pics!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:08 PM | Comments (1)
October 12, 2003
Logs 2-4
Went rock-carry w/ Garrett and da boys, but the swell was starting to hit so it was pretty cloudy and currenty.
After that surfed fun 2-4 foot logs with Jute and Pepino, on my fish. Super fun, not crowded, stoked.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:55 PM | Comments (0)
October 05, 2003
West swell 4-5 foot secret spot tubes
West swell is hitting the buoys at 8 feet 20 seconds. I start checking the surf at Sunset, its looking pretty clean out there:
After driving around looking at spots for an hour, ended up at a favorite North Shore secret spot. Ended up surfing 2 solid hours in the glassy, barreling 4-5 foot, got about 6-7 tubes, only me and 2 others sharing, trading off and hooting. I think that may be the most tubes in a session ever for me.
Ironically, I felt like a wuss because I surfed a smaller spot, rather that 6-8 foot at sunset or alligators.
Jockos was going off, but I was satisfied with my session already, I just took pics:
I also took this shot of Pinballs:
That's it!! I am totally surfed out after three days of solid surf, I gots to work!!!
On another note, I have ordered a tow-in board from Dick Brewer, very stoked, can't wait to see it, and surf it.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:50 AM | Comments (0)
October 04, 2003
Swell is holding strong 4-6 foot
Saturday: Swell has dropped a little, and cleaned up too, the winds are dead. Get a call from da boys who are coming up to surf. Elected for a secret spot near my house which we all like to surf.
When I pulled up I saw this:
Glassy 4-6 foot lefts, some rideable for 200 yards or so. Everybody scrmbled to get out there. 3 hour session, just DA boys. I caught so many waves out there, just wave after wave, another epic session. The spot was basically as good as it gets. To tired to surf again later, my arms are toast, and I'm totally sunburned on my face even though I used sunblock.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:33 AM | Comments (0)
October 03, 2003
First Big swell of the season
Yowza!! Buoys pinging off the richter all night. Contemplating tow-ins but it wasn't big enough. Met garrett at Sunset, he paddled out to the 6-10 foot on a single fin brewer gun with no leash plug.
It was a bit lumpy out there, so I went to a spot near Kahuku where I scored solid 6-7 foot glassy lefts, only 4-5 guys out. Epic session for me, caught so many waves on my 7'2", got two tubes, one of which I had a monster room with a view, the other I was pitted but not deep, STOKED!!!
For my afternoon session, I paddled out at Lani's it was 6-8 foot glass. The swell had cleaned up since the morning, Triple overhead rights where rolling through. It was crowded, I only got about 4 waves, but it was an experience just seeing the waves, so big and perfect.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:11 AM | Comments (0)
October 02, 2003
4 foot swells coming in
Well, the forecast is calling for 12-15 foot faces tommorow, which should be about 6-8 foot Hawaiian. This graph of the buoy 1 appoximately indicates not only swell height, but stoke level:
[img]http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/plot_wave.phtml?$station=51001$swht[/img]
I surfed twice yesterday: woke up and it was still flat, but the buoys had been pinging since 2am, Garrett was calling the swell to arrive at 10. My phone was ringing off the hook with buddies wanting a report. I went on some appointments and got in the water somewhere I cannot say around 1. 4-5 foot, about 10 guys aout, but I still caught choke waves. Nobody seemed to be really on the peak.
Some crap pics I took:
Evening session right behind my house. I brought two friends with me, which this guy in the water I have never seen before took great offence to. "Where are all these people coming from?!?!" he bellowed from his longboard on the outside. "I remeber when I used to surf this place just me and ----!!"
I tried to ignore the guy best I could and enjoy the reeling 4 occ 4 1/2 foot lefts that where peeling in. We weren't even really near the guy for g-d's sake! My buddy in the buidling had warned me there was a longboard guy who came out once in a blue moon who thinks he owns the place, I think that was him.
Another note: someone called DLNR (dept of land and natural resources) and complained that they observed me giving surf lessons without a permit. The guy said there have been "lots of complaints.' This is REALLY interesting considering I haven't even given any surf lessons, I have only put up an ad on my site site regarding doing it, and I have had a few calls, but no dice yet. I HAVE heard about guys giving surf lessons at chuns and clogging the lineups so I guess they blamed it on me since my webpages on this site are ranking well for "surf lessons hawaii" and related keywords. Maybe they are jealous of my sites rankings, Amazing bullshit!!!! I never mentioned it, but I do Search Engine Optimization for living, thats how I did it.
Anyways, I have begn the process of getting the proper permits. To whoever comlained about me: how would you even know it's me? There aren't any pictures of my face on the site!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:34 PM | Comments (2)