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October 04, 2003
Swell is holding strong 4-6 foot
Saturday: Swell has dropped a little, and cleaned up too, the winds are dead. Get a call from da boys who are coming up to surf. Elected for a secret spot near my house which we all like to surf.
Glassy 4-6 foot lefts, some rideable for 200 yards or so. Everybody scrmbled to get out there. 3 hour session, just DA boys. I caught so many waves out there, just wave after wave, another epic session. The spot was basically as good as it gets. To tired to surf again later, my arms are toast, and I'm totally sunburned on my face even though I used sunblock.
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 4, 2003 07:33 AM