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October 05, 2003
West swell 4-5 foot secret spot tubes
West swell is hitting the buoys at 8 feet 20 seconds. I start checking the surf at Sunset, its looking pretty clean out there:
After driving around looking at spots for an hour, ended up at a favorite North Shore secret spot. Ended up surfing 2 solid hours in the glassy, barreling 4-5 foot, got about 6-7 tubes, only me and 2 others sharing, trading off and hooting. I think that may be the most tubes in a session ever for me.
Ironically, I felt like a wuss because I surfed a smaller spot, rather that 6-8 foot at sunset or alligators.
Jockos was going off, but I was satisfied with my session already, I just took pics:
I also took this shot of Pinballs:
That's it!! I am totally surfed out after three days of solid surf, I gots to work!!!
On another note, I have ordered a tow-in board from Dick Brewer, very stoked, can't wait to see it, and surf it.
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 5, 2003 07:50 AM