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November 28, 2003
Nig North Swell, 8-12
A few pics:
Waimea:
Sunset:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:31 PM | Comments (0)
November 26, 2003
Macdonalds: 3-5 perfection, nobody out!
Had to make up for yesterday's skunking on the east side and we did..
Christian, Jason and I had this one spot all to ourselves for over an hour, I'll call it "Macdonalds," then shared it with one or two others for two more hours.
3-4 occ almost 5 foot lefts, super consistent wave after wave, straight off shore, and peeling 50 yards plus on the good ones. Everyone got tubed... I must have caught 20-30 waves or more, I dunno.
Super long paddle out, sayed out three hours, arms are complete noodles. Best I've ever surfed that spot. Scarfed a huge Macdonalds right after, it was awsome. I'm totally surfed out.
I just noticed I flexed my 7'0", it must have happened at Lanis on the 6'-7' day when I got caught inside, so sad...
Disposable water cam pics:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:50 PM | Comments (1)
November 23, 2003
Fun Lanis Once again, 3-6 foot
Yup Lanis once again, just like the last two days but a little smaller. I rode my 6'6 which was the perfect board for the conditions.
Pretty bumpy from North winds, but clean on the face. The north swell direction was pretty good for Lanis. I was so relaxed after surfing Lanis like 2-3 feet bigger the last couple days, so the size was nothing. I got caught inside on a 6 footer but it seemed like nothing.
The crowd wasn't even a factor really either today, it was spread out and hardly anyone was on the main peak. I caught choke waves, and paddled a lot too. Most of the crowd was at the smaller end bowl, which was smaller.
Aloha, go surf!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:28 PM | Comments (0)
Lumpy Lanis 4-6 occ bigger
I almost drove to sandys but surfed Lanis instead. Apparently Sandy's was 10 foot Hawaiian, the biggest in 10 years or so. Garrett was out towing there yesterday.
Lanis was about 4-6 occ bigger, really lumpy with the n wind, but super uncrowded, and still kind of fun.
The highlight of the session was Ken Bradshaw chatting it up with me when the biggest set of the day came in. He jumped off his board, I tried to duckdive. Ended up getting douched by the entire set all the way in and had to go around the channel. But I held onto my board!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:40 AM | Comments (0)
November 19, 2003
Finally! 6-7 foot Lanis!
Today started off super windy and ugly. Finally went for a surf check, Lanis was actually looking decent under the 15-30 mph trades.
Surfed my 7'2" solid 6 - 7 foot with maybe a few almost 8 foot sets. Yea!
Caught two bombs all the way through, both had nice long walls, it felt amazing to surf semi-big waves again on the gun, with almost no crowd out there (12 guys at this size Lanis is no crowd).
In other news I think Garrett's Extreme Challenge is goin to happen Friday.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:58 PM | Comments (1)
November 09, 2003
Sundat Surf - Small but fun secret spot
Sunday after getting home from the hospital I was allowed to go for a surf!!!
Met up at ss code named chamesh's. As I drove by Lani's and leftovers there were hundreds of people out at both spots, nobody at ours. Christian and I had the 2-3 occ 4 to ourselves for 45 minutes until 7 guys paddled out at the same time. This is a small surf spot, so it kinda ruined it for me, especially after getting snaked twice, but I still got a few more waves.
It was cool becaise I saw my old friend John Cooke who is visiting form Texas, as well as a bunch of surf buddies cruising and congratulating me for the baby in in the parking lot.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:13 AM | Comments (0)
November 08, 2003
It's a Girl!
Saturady @ 1:13 PM my wife gave birth to a beautiful 7 lb 8 oz baby girl, Ellie Ananda Segal:
Words cannot even begin to describe the feeling you get when you see that baby come out, it's like a miracle, g-d is singing.....I'm a dad!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:06 AM | Comments (4)
November 03, 2003
Bethany Hamilton
Wishing a speedy recovery for Bethany Hamilton, her arm was bitten off by a shark in Kaui. Her website is here. She's got some great surf pics of herself up there, take a minute to wish her well!
Good luck Bethany!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:00 PM | Comments (2)
November 01, 2003
4' lefts - Cordi-OHs
Nice West swell coming in, 4'-6' at some spots. I elected for a smaller left, nobody out and still solid 4'. Just Me, Christian and Cordio sharing waves for two hours, glassy the whole time. We took turns taking pics from the disposable water cam, everyone got a barrel shot. My last wave in was my best, like a 2 second dry tube. Will post pics when they get back from the one-hour photo place.
Saw Pipe on the cam, and spoke to a friend who surfed it. 4-6 and absolutely richter West swell.
Some PIcs:
Another:
Me:
Another:
So much fun out there:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:33 PM | Comments (2)