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December 28, 2003
2 Hour Longboard Solo Session, dead Glass
My longboard session turned out good. Dead glasss, all alone solo session for 2 hours, lots of wave under the belt long and slopey. Started at this outside break (HH's) that sucks in all available swell, about 4 foot on the sets, maybe 4 1/2. This one set caught me and ripped the board out of my hands I had to swim ALLLL the way in for it, probaly 400 yards. I was hungry and thirsty but I didn't want to go in when I was catching waves all alone.
After the first hour I went down a little and found this perfect little right about chest-head high that would zipper right for a nice fun ride, over and over and over again. "there's gold in them thar waves" I was thinking to myself. It was wierd because when I got to the beach and looked out I could NOT see that perfect little wave I was catching. It was like it was there when I was out surfing then it vanished. Pretty special.
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 28, 2003 07:16 PM