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December 25, 2003
2 sessions, GPS measurements taken
Last night camped out near the eand of the road. Well I didn't actually camp, I went and hung out with a bunch of friends who were camping, we had a raging bonfire, then went home and slept at midnight, then returned in the morning.
Anyways in the morning Cristian didn't want to surf, he went home so Jute and I had it to ourselves 3 occ 4 and really fun. It was bowlier than usual at the spot this particular day, I could tons of waves on my 6'3", then had a beer on the beach at the campsite. Super sunny, blue water, stoked!
Later on watching behind my house we decided to try this outside break, we could see a few good ones coming in way out there. I put my GPS in a waterproof bag with me, to see how far out the break actually is. It takes about 20-25 minutes to paddle out here, and it was .4 miles (to the inside, we never went all the way to the mainpeak really). 4-5 foot rights, hard to get, but I got three.
Then We decided to paddle over to my usual break, but there was this left half way there that was great! Caught 3 waves at the "half way over" wave, and one peeled for a good 100 yards. I didn't even know there was a break here , yes!
Finally paddlled all the way to the other break, (.4 miles from the first break) it was bumpy but very fun 4 foot lefts. Good direction west swell . By now I was exhausted so only caught a few and then went in. (.3 miles paddle in)
So: I covered over 1.2 miles in distance as the bird flys during that session, but at least twice that including catching waves and padlling back out.
Its cool because I could see the lines of my rides on the map. I realized If you could get a small gps on your watch and mark the take-off spot out at a shifty cloudbreak peak, it would be incredible.
I'm totally surfed out and tired, it doesn't get any better than this, thank you god once again....
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 25, 2003 08:03 PM