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December 21, 2003
3-6 foot secret spot, then 8-10 foot tow ins
Somebody pinch me, I'm dreaming. In the morning I had a flurry of calls from everybody but I played it cool until I got all the reports then went there. It sounded like everywhere was good really from the reports, the problem is picking a spot to surf.
Went to the spot near my house and surfed glassy 3-5 occ 6 foot on the way outside sets, just the boys, lowenthal, nobu, jesse, and 2 other guys I dont know. Surfed my 6'3", this wave is pretty slopy even on the way outside double overhead sets, so you can catch them on the small board. I actually paddled about 200 feet outside everyone at one point and caught 2 of the outside 6 foot waves this morning, so stoked.
At this point the buoys are pinging 8 feet 20 secs for several hours now, I get the call frm Garrett "Where are you, we are waiting for you its 12 foot and perfect!" Hauled ass home, grabbed the tow-board and was gone.
First I drove Matsuda's jetski and filmed garret towing this one guy in to a few, and Troy Alotis and Jamie Stirling cautch a few. The it wa my turn to catch some.
ENded up getting whipped into like 5-7 waves in the 8-10 foot range. Two 10 foot lefts and My last wave were really memorable because Troy and I caught the same wave, I went right and then it kept re-forming and jacking and reforming up all the way through almost to freddyland, like a 300-500 yard long ride, hollow and jacking all the way! My legs were completly giving out halfway through the wave, I could barely stand my legs were so tired, not too many turns on that one, but it was epic!!!!
That being said, my legs were feeling way better this time than they did the first few times I went, mostly due to riding my bike up Pupukea flats.
All in all one of the session of my life, lets see what tommorow brings, its supposed to be even bigger.
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 21, 2003 01:16 AM