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December 16, 2003
4-6 foot Hawaiian
Woke up and saw perfection out my window, best I've seen in a while. Had choke calls and clients so I waited for my friend Glenn to show up at my house and then surfed where I always surf when its light and variable winds. 4-6 foot , (windsock) got out late, 11:30, onshores were already blowing, but the faces were clean. Jessie and Chris weree out too, as well as Rainos Hayes and David Cantrell. Fun, double overhead sets, pretty shouldery.
Checked country, was all blown, back to the end of the road. Maxed out cloudbreaking 8 foot sets, but still caughht 8 fun 5-6 footers. Pretty bumpy, I was licky to get the ones I did, Glenn only got one wave, in!
All in all, pretty stoked, another day in paradise.....somebody pinch me...
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 16, 2003 09:13 PM