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December 31, 2003
3-4 then 6 foot; straight offshore winds
Great day of surf on the last day of the year. Took Ryan and Shawn for thier first Hawaiian surf session, and it was a good one : 4 foot clean lefts, lots of waves for all, just us out there. Clean and glassy.
Evening session increased the size: solid 6 foot straight offshore at Ali rock. Haven't surfed there much before, don't know why, its great. Only 6 guys or so out with us, caught some righthand great bombs on my 7'2".
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:17 PM | Comments (3)
December 28, 2003
2 Hour Longboard Solo Session, dead Glass
My longboard session turned out good. Dead glasss, all alone solo session for 2 hours, lots of wave under the belt long and slopey. Started at this outside break (HH's) that sucks in all available swell, about 4 foot on the sets, maybe 4 1/2. This one set caught me and ripped the board out of my hands I had to swim ALLLL the way in for it, probaly 400 yards. I was hungry and thirsty but I didn't want to go in when I was catching waves all alone.
After the first hour I went down a little and found this perfect little right about chest-head high that would zipper right for a nice fun ride, over and over and over again. "there's gold in them thar waves" I was thinking to myself. It was wierd because when I got to the beach and looked out I could NOT see that perfect little wave I was catching. It was like it was there when I was out surfing then it vanished. Pretty special.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:16 PM | Comments (0)
December 25, 2003
2 sessions, GPS measurements taken
Last night camped out near the eand of the road. Well I didn't actually camp, I went and hung out with a bunch of friends who were camping, we had a raging bonfire, then went home and slept at midnight, then returned in the morning.
Anyways in the morning Cristian didn't want to surf, he went home so Jute and I had it to ourselves 3 occ 4 and really fun. It was bowlier than usual at the spot this particular day, I could tons of waves on my 6'3", then had a beer on the beach at the campsite. Super sunny, blue water, stoked!
Later on watching behind my house we decided to try this outside break, we could see a few good ones coming in way out there. I put my GPS in a waterproof bag with me, to see how far out the break actually is. It takes about 20-25 minutes to paddle out here, and it was .4 miles (to the inside, we never went all the way to the mainpeak really). 4-5 foot rights, hard to get, but I got three.
Then We decided to paddle over to my usual break, but there was this left half way there that was great! Caught 3 waves at the "half way over" wave, and one peeled for a good 100 yards. I didn't even know there was a break here , yes!
Finally paddlled all the way to the other break, (.4 miles from the first break) it was bumpy but very fun 4 foot lefts. Good direction west swell . By now I was exhausted so only caught a few and then went in. (.3 miles paddle in)
So: I covered over 1.2 miles in distance as the bird flys during that session, but at least twice that including catching waves and padlling back out.
Its cool because I could see the lines of my rides on the map. I realized If you could get a small gps on your watch and mark the take-off spot out at a shifty cloudbreak peak, it would be incredible.
I'm totally surfed out and tired, it doesn't get any better than this, thank you god once again....
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:03 PM | Comments (0)
December 23, 2003
Cordio-ohs 3-4 foot
Cordio called me at 7, said everywher looked wierd, but come down. Met Christian and the Cord at the spot. Just us out 3-4 foot, with some really good west peak lefts coming in. I scored a few little drainers, 2 tubes, and called it a session after 2 hours. This guy paddled out by himself at the end said he checked it with his 8'0 in the car then drove all the way back to Millilani for his shorty. I think he scored, cause he had it to himself when we left, saw more aves coming through...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:50 PM | Comments (0)
December 22, 2003
West Side 4-6 foot
Morning check reveals big waves breaing very far out, I headed west. I surfed a west side spot 4-6, light crumble, 3-6 guys out, really fun. "The spot that eats boards" It was inconsistent, but a bunch of really good lefts would come thoruough every once in a while and I would get one.
This kook almost gave me a heart attack when we pulled up. This guy had no business being out there, total beginner. I see the guy floating on the inside to the left right by the rocks getting washed in, he can barely paddle, and can't duck dive. Wwimming off his board for the paddle in, he looked scared shitless. what a dummy even paddling out, I thought he was going into the rocas.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 05:54 PM | Comments (1)
Pinballs 8-10
Surf is really big everywhere,l I ended up at Pinballs 8-10. I used Cristian's 10 foot brewer single fin gun. Fun, bumpy, big drops. Nuff said!
Big wave rider Brian - aka surfer dude - was out there on his big yellow gun getting a few waves too.. Wassap Brian!!
Got a cool pic of the shorebreak:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:16 AM | Comments (0)
December 21, 2003
3-6 foot secret spot, then 8-10 foot tow ins
Somebody pinch me, I'm dreaming. In the morning I had a flurry of calls from everybody but I played it cool until I got all the reports then went there. It sounded like everywhere was good really from the reports, the problem is picking a spot to surf.
Went to the spot near my house and surfed glassy 3-5 occ 6 foot on the way outside sets, just the boys, lowenthal, nobu, jesse, and 2 other guys I dont know. Surfed my 6'3", this wave is pretty slopy even on the way outside double overhead sets, so you can catch them on the small board. I actually paddled about 200 feet outside everyone at one point and caught 2 of the outside 6 foot waves this morning, so stoked.
At this point the buoys are pinging 8 feet 20 secs for several hours now, I get the call frm Garrett "Where are you, we are waiting for you its 12 foot and perfect!" Hauled ass home, grabbed the tow-board and was gone.
First I drove Matsuda's jetski and filmed garret towing this one guy in to a few, and Troy Alotis and Jamie Stirling cautch a few. The it wa my turn to catch some.
ENded up getting whipped into like 5-7 waves in the 8-10 foot range. Two 10 foot lefts and My last wave were really memorable because Troy and I caught the same wave, I went right and then it kept re-forming and jacking and reforming up all the way through almost to freddyland, like a 300-500 yard long ride, hollow and jacking all the way! My legs were completly giving out halfway through the wave, I could barely stand my legs were so tired, not too many turns on that one, but it was epic!!!!
That being said, my legs were feeling way better this time than they did the first few times I went, mostly due to riding my bike up Pupukea flats.
All in all one of the session of my life, lets see what tommorow brings, its supposed to be even bigger.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:16 AM | Comments (0)
December 19, 2003
4-6 foot Lanis occ bigger sets
Lanis was really good with the north swell today, about 4-6 with some bigger sets to keep it interesting. I took a few pics before I paddled out there:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:38 PM | Comments (0)
December 16, 2003
4-6 foot Hawaiian
Woke up and saw perfection out my window, best I've seen in a while. Had choke calls and clients so I waited for my friend Glenn to show up at my house and then surfed where I always surf when its light and variable winds. 4-6 foot , (windsock) got out late, 11:30, onshores were already blowing, but the faces were clean. Jessie and Chris weree out too, as well as Rainos Hayes and David Cantrell. Fun, double overhead sets, pretty shouldery.
Checked country, was all blown, back to the end of the road. Maxed out cloudbreaking 8 foot sets, but still caughht 8 fun 5-6 footers. Pretty bumpy, I was licky to get the ones I did, Glenn only got one wave, in!
All in all, pretty stoked, another day in paradise.....somebody pinch me...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:13 PM | Comments (0)
December 13, 2003
Empty Secret Spot Pic
Here is a pic of my favorite secret spot, nobody out :
One of Jockos the other day:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:41 PM | Comments (0)
Pipe Masters Pictures
I watched the Pipe Masters for a while today, it was the most crowded I have ever seen it by far. Got a few pics:
He made this one, and got barreled:
Kalanai Chapman made this barrel and got a perfect 10!!!!!
After the contest we went and surfed Alligators, it was my first time out there, it was around 4-6, it breaks like Sunset kind of. I caught a bunch of slopy waves on my 7'2" then we went to Cordi-ohs and surfed it like 3 feet. We actually had fun out there, even though it probaly looked crappt from the shore.....
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:21 PM | Comments (1)
Leftovers had some clean, but inconsistent mackers
I surfed leftovers today, some nice big sets were coming through, cloudbreaking, then reforming perfectly like every half hour, 7-8 foot backs on two of the sets. Most waves were 4-6 though, pretty inconsistent.
Just Christian, Nobu, Jeff and myself out there. I duck dove this big set, christian was like 30-40 feet behind me, turn around he is floating with half a board, his brand new Bushman! Bummers...
Its cool at leftovers because it's a slopey wall kind o f (at least compared to himmis, jox or pipe) I rode my 6'6" and got some super fun late drops, really airy. This one drop in particular in fronbt of the boys was probaly 7 foot at least, I could feel the air of the lip near me as I aired it in, stoked!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:55 AM | Comments (0)
December 12, 2003
Pipe Masters is On, New Pics Uploaded
The Pipe Masters is on, looks like 4-8 foot out there, a little morning sickness early, but light trades are set to blow, so its gonna be good. Actually the day of contests, especially the Triple Crown, usually has epic waves somewhere.
I uploaded water pics from our East side session the other week.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:05 AM | Comments (1)
Hawaii Shark Encounters!
I picked up a new client for my web marketing business, Hawaii Shark Encounters. Swimming in the shark cage was unreal! There were like 20-30 sharks 5-10 foot all over the place, nosing the cage, eating the big pieces of chum, frothing:
The cage:
Highly reccomended trip!!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:54 AM | Comments (2)
December 07, 2003
Super Sunday - Dream Sessions
Sunday was unreal for me, one of those days you remeber for a while.
I woke up to no wind, meaning all my secret spots would be good. Left the house around 8, got to the 1rst spot at 8:15...holy sh-t 4-6 foot glass, barrels, noone out, at a spot we have called Navies. Called da boys, 3 of us surfed it for 1 hour, slightly undregunned on my 6'6", here is the only pic I took :
After a while we decided to go to another nearby spot that is a long left.
When I got to the beach I see my freind christian holding the vid cam, he was filming, and is going to follow us to the next spot and fil too, cooL!
2nd session: 4-5 occ plus lefts, long, a tiny bump on it, just the boys out again. 1st wave swallows me whole - barrel, then after I probaly caught 20-30 waves. I was catching about 3 waves to the other buddy's one, my paddle muscles are really warmed up these days. Super fun! All on film too!
3rd session: Jason and I hit a reallyt close spot, its 4-5 foot lefts over a trippy reef. ou had to be really selective, but some good one were to be had. Got barreled on my last wave. My friend kept getting almost all the way outside then swatted back, he was kind of hating it, but he still managed a few waves.
3 sessions, all in the 4-6 foot range (hawaiian), clean, going left and just friends out, god I feel really blessed sometimes.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:43 PM | Comments (0)
December 05, 2003
Rip Curl Triple Crown Action: 8-10 foot incredible
Watched the semi-finals of the Rip Curl Cup at Sunset today. The waves were just incredible, big open right walls and pits. The bowl was definetly working, it was the best Sunset conditions I have ever personally witnessed.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:43 PM | Comments (1)
December 02, 2003
5-6 foot Lanis served up Lightly Chopped, very spicy
5-6 foot Lanis on the outside, served chopped but still super fun. I rode my 7'2", which was nice since it was solid double overhead on the sets, and pretty lumpy in some sections. Actually It was nice because there was absolutely noone going for the sets all the way outside on the main peak, so I kept paddling back for more. I actually like these chop days more sometimes...
Before I surfed Lanis I stopped for a few pics from the sandbar which formed at Waimea when the river burst a few days ago:
Lanis on Friday when it was 8-12 foot:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:20 PM | Comments (0)
December 01, 2003
6 foot tow in training session
Met up with Rob, who I met through Garrett. He was cool enough to take me and Brian on some tow in and training runs today.
Country was 4-6 and looking super glassy, I was checking one of my spots, saw Rob and he invited me. Went out to a outside wave near my house, there were some 6 foot sets, only the sets breaking really. Only towed into a few then did practice runs:
First did man in the water extractions onto the sled without a board, then with a board. We took turns doing this on each side. We practiced the wrist grab extraction, going faster and faster each time. We practiced doing fast pick-ups with the rope, rider getting up on the board.
It was trippy when the other two guys would go for a wave and you would just be sitting out there alone floating in the middle of the ocean. The water was brown from river runoff, it torrentially rained the night before.
Our Tow boards, mine is the Blue:
Defintely some great practice on all the manuvers surrounding the tow ins.
After that I actually had energy and surfed no-wind dead glass lefts about head high near Rob's hous, Cristain, Cordio and me.
Today my legs are sore though from the towing. More swell is on the way looking at maps, stoked!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:26 PM | Comments (0)