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February 14, 2004
8-12 footswell, East side wrap
Woke up early everything was seconmd reef cloudbreaking.
Anyways found a spot on the east side w/ some wrap. 4 foot occ plus rights and lefts. The lefts would break so fast it was sick, usually its not quite so quick. I learned on on my first wave, a set, I dropped in late and went sideways in the barrel and landed so hard on my side I cracked a rib. Ouch!
But after that I went to the rights and it was so fun so I just stayed out. The right would just keep re-forming all the way in, one wave I had like 5 cutbacks. Real consistent session too with just my 2 friends and 2 other guys rotating.
I think I'm outta the water for a few days.....
Stopped at PIPE for a few pics on the way home:
Posted by hawaiisurf at February 14, 2004 09:17 AM
Comments
Second Picture:
This is what makes me so nervous wen I surf at times. When any spot gets anywhere near as crowded as that, I head home. I'm not good enough to avoid slamming into that many people.
Posted by: Defense Engineer at February 16, 2004 08:17 AM
I am exactly the same way, that why I almost never surf pipe.
Posted by: joe at February 17, 2004 11:44 PM