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June 21, 2004
1-2 foot Lanis
surfed lanis, about waist - chest high, with a few rare shoulder high waves. Small, BUT almost nobody out, sunny, and the occ fun wave here and there. Lefts and rights both, with the lefts almost better.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:35 PM | Comments (0)
June 20, 2004
Logs Again!
After yesterdays session at Lgs, I wanted more! Lanis looked ok, but I kept driving.
Walking out to logs I couldnt beleive my eyes, it was less crowded than yesterday, and still had some sets! Ended up with a decently good session, though not as good as yesterday. 3 foot with only a rare 4 footer or two. It was less people, but every wave seemed to have someone either flailing inside me, or paddling right in front of me. Session ended when a bunch of guys with tatoos and missing teeth came out together and took over the lineup, snaking and laughing with impunity.
I got one pic while checking it:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:51 PM | Comments (0)
June 19, 2004
North Swell - Summertime North Shore Action!
Freak summertime north shore swell action!
Watched it come up yesterday afternoon, the buoys were hitting starting at 5am, the swell hit around 3-5 oclock, by dark it was solid 4-5 foot hawaiian. I was babysitting, so I just watched it from the roof, damm it looked good, nobody out.
Ellie woke me up at 4 am this morning! So I dawned it behind the house, chunky 4 foot, just me and another dad out, he had to go in for babysitting duty. Still some really fun waves to be had, steve and I were trading off. It was fun from about 6-8am , but then the trades started blowing and it got crappy.
Evening session log cabins solid 3-4. Probaly my funnest session ever at logs, left and rights, and more lefts. It was crowded but my new mullet haircut was giving me power, I was able to get plenny waves. Got a fun snap-stall tube on a left, and great lip crack on a right. The rights were longer, but the lefts hollower. Overall a great session for me, the best surf I've had in months.
Gonna try to get up early tommorow.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:16 AM | Comments (0)
June 04, 2004
Laniakea summertime fun
Lani's 2-4 foot, super fun, warm water, I skinned it and was warm, and I get cold easy.....about 1-3 pm. one of those sessions where you catch wave after wave until you are exhausted. I had one really memorable wave where I was just pumping down the line racing section after section, must have rode it 75 yards or so, no turns, just SPEED! Mellow crowd was making it easy to catch a bunch. I heard logs had some fun ones too/.
I snapped a quick pic of the surf in the parking lot, I didn't bother to wait for a set though:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:03 AM | Comments (0)