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June 19, 2004
North Swell - Summertime North Shore Action!
Freak summertime north shore swell action!
Watched it come up yesterday afternoon, the buoys were hitting starting at 5am, the swell hit around 3-5 oclock, by dark it was solid 4-5 foot hawaiian. I was babysitting, so I just watched it from the roof, damm it looked good, nobody out.
Ellie woke me up at 4 am this morning! So I dawned it behind the house, chunky 4 foot, just me and another dad out, he had to go in for babysitting duty. Still some really fun waves to be had, steve and I were trading off. It was fun from about 6-8am , but then the trades started blowing and it got crappy.
Evening session log cabins solid 3-4. Probaly my funnest session ever at logs, left and rights, and more lefts. It was crowded but my new mullet haircut was giving me power, I was able to get plenny waves. Got a fun snap-stall tube on a left, and great lip crack on a right. The rights were longer, but the lefts hollower. Overall a great session for me, the best surf I've had in months.
Gonna try to get up early tommorow.
Posted by hawaiisurf at June 19, 2004 12:16 AM