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November 07, 2004
Epic left session, many, many waves ridden
One of the nicest surfs I've had at this spot ever, even though my pinky toe and the surrounding area is black and blue from walking into something two days ago. size was 4-5 with an occasional 6 foot closeout.
The first 45 minutes I wasn't making any waves I caught really, was closed out by the waves and the crowd of people Id never seen before catching waves on bigger boards when I was riding a 6"3".
But then I got stoked....When it turned slightly onshore, the crowd thinned to me and one other and then I was catching wave after wave after wave, long shreddable lefts. The light onshores actualy made it better for me because I could get in a little earlier, start pumping and make the sections then hit a couple overhead lips or cutback. The longest wave I had went like 100 yards. .. I remember feeling my legs getting tired because it was steep pretty much the whole way.
I was watching this outside spot which was much bigger then saw mega on the beach and he said he was out there....Ill let him describe his session
I hope i didn't hype it too much, but I betcha manana will be good in the morning too..
Posted by hawaiisurf at November 7, 2004 07:51 PM