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November 26, 2004
head to double overhead clean lefts, a crowd of freinds to share
4-5 mostly with occ 6 foot on the bomb sets, clean with a crowd of friends for the mostly with a few unknowns from 10:3- 1:30 . Fun, long lefts. EOTR, or O.T if you know the spot . Slap, bud and lgreannz know where I'm talking about. About as good as it gets for this spot. Surfed a 6'2" pintail, which was great if you were in perfectly the right place on the take off. Got caught behind the section on a few DOH-ers, but made a bunch of good ones, 2 barrels on the smaller ones and a lot of fun rides in those 3 hours.
At first I was frustrated with the crowd and size but got a barrel then it was all good for the next two hours.
Watched the webcast of the sunset contest afterwards, looked great, good entertainment after the session when babysitting. Probaly 6-10 for the contest.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:28 PM | Comments (0)
November 20, 2004
Big Waves, Haleiwa Vans Pro
Woke up to see waves just cloudbreaking, it looked huge out there:
Watched the webcast of the Haleiwa Vans Pro from home for a while, then went to see the action live.
Andy Irons was cool to watch, but he didn't make any of his waves all the way through and lost his heat.
I saw this flyaway kickout on like 6 other sites, everybody loves a flyaway kickout!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:02 AM | Comments (0)
November 12, 2004
Taped up the foot and had an epic session
I wrapped my foot in duct tape and surfed eotr's or ot's.......glassy 4-5 occ pluses, broke my 6'2" after about 5 waves but fortunately I had a 6'6" in the car. Just got hung up at the top on about a 5 footer, did a swan dive..... Caught a bunch of great waves near the end of the session....long lefts from the way outside and deeper peak stepping off on the sand on my last one:)
south winds today! yes looks liek the seabreeze is hitting a few places, probaly glass out everwhere before dark I bet.....happy aloha friday everyone!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:26 PM | Comments (0)
November 08, 2004
Nice 3-4 foot all day
I didn't surf on account of my swollen and black and blue pinky toe on my right foot, made worse by the countless waves I caught yesterday. Looked like it got really fun right before dark....
The rights were looking really good, nobody was really taking advantage of them though....
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:09 PM | Comments (0)
November 07, 2004
Epic left session, many, many waves ridden
One of the nicest surfs I've had at this spot ever, even though my pinky toe and the surrounding area is black and blue from walking into something two days ago. size was 4-5 with an occasional 6 foot closeout.
The first 45 minutes I wasn't making any waves I caught really, was closed out by the waves and the crowd of people Id never seen before catching waves on bigger boards when I was riding a 6"3".
But then I got stoked....When it turned slightly onshore, the crowd thinned to me and one other and then I was catching wave after wave after wave, long shreddable lefts. The light onshores actualy made it better for me because I could get in a little earlier, start pumping and make the sections then hit a couple overhead lips or cutback. The longest wave I had went like 100 yards. .. I remember feeling my legs getting tired because it was steep pretty much the whole way.
I was watching this outside spot which was much bigger then saw mega on the beach and he said he was out there....Ill let him describe his session
I hope i didn't hype it too much, but I betcha manana will be good in the morning too..
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:51 PM | Comments (0)
November 04, 2004
Super Glass 2-3 longboarding session
Relaxing, sunny, absolutely no wind glass session with the lngboard behind the house. Great session, sometimes longboard is the call. I caught way more waves and rode with less effort longer than I would have on a shortboard.....felt good
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:36 PM | Comments (0)
Fun Lefts - 3 hour session at chameshes
Surfed our favorite little left, got a few leetle tubes, all in all a fun session. Christian got the truck cam going will post the video soon soon.
Clark Little was out there ripping it up:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:58 PM | Comments (0)