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November 12, 2004
Taped up the foot and had an epic session
I wrapped my foot in duct tape and surfed eotr's or ot's.......glassy 4-5 occ pluses, broke my 6'2" after about 5 waves but fortunately I had a 6'6" in the car. Just got hung up at the top on about a 5 footer, did a swan dive..... Caught a bunch of great waves near the end of the session....long lefts from the way outside and deeper peak stepping off on the sand on my last one:)
south winds today! yes looks liek the seabreeze is hitting a few places, probaly glass out everwhere before dark I bet.....happy aloha friday everyone!
Posted by hawaiisurf at November 12, 2004 02:26 PM