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December 21, 2004
Big Blue Waves on Outer Reefs
The buoys were pounding last night 17 feet 17 seconds or so, we knew it was going to be big west swell in the morning...The high surf warning had been going since yesterday before it was even 3 feet.
As we pulled out of Haleiewa harbor 2 waves came through Puenas that looked a lot like backdoor or V-land, draining barrels, like 5 guys were out.
Went straight out and finally got to catch about 4 waves at avalanche, I always wanted to go out there. I would say it was 8-12 or so. Big smooth drop and a short wall into the channel. Problem was it was like 20 minutes between sets so we started going west. Saw some guys who said it was good down there at the rock but 6 paddlers just came came out. They were saying it wasn't hitting it there as much as some spots, it was only 8 feet.
Ended up at this other left, just the most beautiful long blue waves with straight offshore winds. We were out with two other skis, and every wave with more than 2 waves in a set got ridden by us. It was about 6-10 foot. I saw this guy Pete get a no hands backside barrel on about an 8-10 footer.
Amazing sight to look at and ride waves that big and perfect....It was really long in between sets I got about 4 waves over there, my parner about 6. We were pretty much only riding the bigger ones to avoid getting caught inside.....
Here are two pictures of the other guys out there, I think this one is Pete(click for full size picture):
This one is full size already:
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 21, 2004 10:33 PM