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December 20, 2004
Big West Swell Picking up all Day Long
Buoy 1 starting pinging 9 feet 20 seconds around 7 am. Watchged it pick up all day long.
Ended up having the unreal session somewhere behind the house, about 4-6 foot, with 7 wave set 8 footers washing through at times. the lefts that weren't too big would just turn and peel for like 100-200 yards down from this really west swell. my last wave I dropped in, did a cutback, just saw the wave doubling up down the line a little, did a slooow bottom turn and pulled in, deep tube and I made it out..sooo stoked I was pretty far back in there.....this guy on the beach said saw the wave and didn't think I was coming out, .....
This other outside break was the best Ive ever seen it, perfect 8-10 foot just peeling. These long period swells rock
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 20, 2004 09:47 PM