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December 31, 2004
Fickle Lefts breaking Perfectly
Right before dark my friend called me, "Looks good, come down to Navy's!!" I had been looking at out back it all day, flat-2 foot, occ 3. Went down, look out see a perfect barreling left. Then another. Out there!!!!
Got out it was perfect 3-4, just us out, but real shifty and 1-2 waves every 10-20 minutes, made it hard to line up just right. Wish we had more toime before dark. Right before dark these 4-5 foot sets came in, never really got a good un'. Ashe got some good ones, called it the best uncrowded waves he's had on the island.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 11:20 PM | Comments (0)
December 24, 2004
Head High Lefts, Just Da Boyz
Drove to the country around noon, pased lanis where the lot was overflowing, everywhere was packed. Same thing chuns, jox, leftover, gators and marijuanas packed. Snuck out to this smaller left which was breaking perfectly with the west swell nobody out. Me and my friend took turns doing watershots with his vid cam. Just perfect conditions with the sun and straight offshore winds, surf was about chest to a foot overhead. We both got each other in a barrel. Two other friends also paddled out after a while.
When we do watershots we tie off a buoy on the inside and tie whoever's turn to film's board off on the bouy. This way a board is floating insiode. Whaddaya know after 3 hours surfing someone called 911 or something thinking it was someone drowned. We could see a firetruck and 2 lifeguard trucks in the lot, with sirens at first....paddlled into the board and they left, how embarrasing....
Watch the Surf Video Here 8 minutes, 20mb quicktime(it's not streaming, you need to download the whole thing to watch it)
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:01 PM | Comments (0)
December 21, 2004
Big Blue Waves on Outer Reefs
The buoys were pounding last night 17 feet 17 seconds or so, we knew it was going to be big west swell in the morning...The high surf warning had been going since yesterday before it was even 3 feet.
As we pulled out of Haleiewa harbor 2 waves came through Puenas that looked a lot like backdoor or V-land, draining barrels, like 5 guys were out.
Went straight out and finally got to catch about 4 waves at avalanche, I always wanted to go out there. I would say it was 8-12 or so. Big smooth drop and a short wall into the channel. Problem was it was like 20 minutes between sets so we started going west. Saw some guys who said it was good down there at the rock but 6 paddlers just came came out. They were saying it wasn't hitting it there as much as some spots, it was only 8 feet.
Ended up at this other left, just the most beautiful long blue waves with straight offshore winds. We were out with two other skis, and every wave with more than 2 waves in a set got ridden by us. It was about 6-10 foot. I saw this guy Pete get a no hands backside barrel on about an 8-10 footer.
Amazing sight to look at and ride waves that big and perfect....It was really long in between sets I got about 4 waves over there, my parner about 6. We were pretty much only riding the bigger ones to avoid getting caught inside.....
Here are two pictures of the other guys out there, I think this one is Pete(click for full size picture):
This one is full size already:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:33 PM | Comments (0)
December 20, 2004
Big West Swell Picking up all Day Long
Buoy 1 starting pinging 9 feet 20 seconds around 7 am. Watchged it pick up all day long.
Ended up having the unreal session somewhere behind the house, about 4-6 foot, with 7 wave set 8 footers washing through at times. the lefts that weren't too big would just turn and peel for like 100-200 yards down from this really west swell. my last wave I dropped in, did a cutback, just saw the wave doubling up down the line a little, did a slooow bottom turn and pulled in, deep tube and I made it out..sooo stoked I was pretty far back in there.....this guy on the beach said saw the wave and didn't think I was coming out, .....
This other outside break was the best Ive ever seen it, perfect 8-10 foot just peeling. These long period swells rock
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:47 PM | Comments (0)
Fun Clean Lefts, 4 foot, 5 on the sets
Got out before any wind came up, surfed this fun left (occ rights, but not as good) with some friends. It was a little inconsistent, with only 1-2 waves per set, but I managed to get my share anyways. I'm pretty sure everyone caught their waves out there, nobody was being a wave-hog.
Even this guy who came out on a gun with webs was being mellow...
Snapped a pic before I paddled out:
It's such a shame the way people just trash this beach, someone burned a mattress on the beach, isn't that nice?
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:36 AM | Comments (0)
December 15, 2004
Eddie Aikau Goes, Outer Reef Exploration on the Ski
Today they had the Eddie Aikau, and I went out on a ski to do some outer reef exploration, and possible tow-in.
Went out on the ski from Haleiwa harbor around 11, I will admit on the drive there from my house I was all jittery.
As soon as we pulled out of the harbor I was relaxed though..., the red buoy had been dragged like 1/2 mile out to sea, in the channel it was a caldron of boiling currents running against each other. When we got outside into deep blue it was super calm still.
As we passed himis there were about 6 guys out there, went down to outside logs..watched a few huge waves roll through, it almost made my heart stop when I was the wave rear up and start to break, it was awsome, probaly 35-50 foot faces coming through, but most were just barely breaking. In retrospect, we should have just stayed there..
Went down to yards and phantoms, there were like 10 teams down there, but real spread out. Saw some monsters come through, but we were not feeling ready to go...
Went back to logs and I towed my partner into about 4 waves, but no sets. At first I was going to far out, but I finally got more aggresive and he caught his waves 1 after the other ...
After we finaly broke the ice I was feeling ready for a wave, but we had to get home to babysite, so no waves actually ridden for me......
After that I went home and my friend wanted to use my board (we split the cost of it actually) so I took it to him at yards, and hung out to watch.
Ken bradshaw and his partner Robbie were riding these 15 footers all the way across backyards, absolutely amazing rides, they have balls. Other guys were absolutely getting mental on the 15-18 foot phantoms lefts and rights.
The Eddie may have went, but these guys were doing the high perfromance thing on like 15-20....It was sick.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:33 PM | Comments (0)
December 13, 2004
Outer Reefs 6-10
Went out for the glasy, rising swell session with my friend B.B's on his ski around 9am. Coming out of the harbor we see Haleiwa reeling 6-8, there a broken board (perfectly folded in half epoxy longboard)floating in the channel and a guy swimming in the rip. We give him and his board a ride and drop him at the little beach in the harbor.
We went down a little and a beautiful 6-7 foot slopey right set reeled through, then nothing for like 25 minutes.
We went down to Laya's and I got a few outsiders, probaly 8-10 footers I would say, rode them pretty far in. We saw a friend and gave him a ride so he could sit on the outside...
Waited around for 20 minutes then went down to Ali's. Two teams were out there, including one lady. They were catching the rights, I got 2-3 lefts, one of which I almost got tubed on...fun ones! By now the wind was starting to increase, so we started heading back.
I towed Bruce into a few, it was getting bigger, but more wind too. One wave was exiting because Bruce kicked out, and the set was bearing down on him, I picked him up with the whitewater pretty close and then dodged the whitewater for a while on the inside. It was cool because there were these deep spots out there you could sort of hide in.....
On the way back in a saw a wave at Puenas that looked like perfect baackdoor or v-land, 3-4 foot.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:04 PM | Comments (0)
December 08, 2004
6-8 Foot Himilayas - Fun Big Surf!
Woke up not even really thinking seriously about surfing because it looked like it was pretty big everywhere, only a few spots break when there's a 6-10 foot swell running on the North Shore...
Ended up at Himilayas, caught some bombs on my new red 7'6", thin and narrow board. Saw a bunch of surf buds out there, which was great....Only got caught inside one time, I was kind of on the shoulder at first but after an hour I could see it was pretty uch breaking in the same place every time so I relaxed...
A few pics taken before and after the session
My friend Liam was out there
One angle on a smaller one:
Another angle of this wave? and other water shots of the session at Wavelust.com
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:06 PM | Comments (0)
December 04, 2004
windblown 2-3ft
surfed behind the house with the boyz. conditions ranged from slightly windy to full on squalls with victory at sea condions. most waves were marginal at best, but we all got couple good ones.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 01:00 PM | Comments (0)