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December 13, 2004
Outer Reefs 6-10
Went out for the glasy, rising swell session with my friend B.B's on his ski around 9am. Coming out of the harbor we see Haleiwa reeling 6-8, there a broken board (perfectly folded in half epoxy longboard)floating in the channel and a guy swimming in the rip. We give him and his board a ride and drop him at the little beach in the harbor.
We went down a little and a beautiful 6-7 foot slopey right set reeled through, then nothing for like 25 minutes.
We went down to Laya's and I got a few outsiders, probaly 8-10 footers I would say, rode them pretty far in. We saw a friend and gave him a ride so he could sit on the outside...
Waited around for 20 minutes then went down to Ali's. Two teams were out there, including one lady. They were catching the rights, I got 2-3 lefts, one of which I almost got tubed on...fun ones! By now the wind was starting to increase, so we started heading back.
I towed Bruce into a few, it was getting bigger, but more wind too. One wave was exiting because Bruce kicked out, and the set was bearing down on him, I picked him up with the whitewater pretty close and then dodged the whitewater for a while on the inside. It was cool because there were these deep spots out there you could sort of hide in.....
On the way back in a saw a wave at Puenas that looked like perfect baackdoor or v-land, 3-4 foot.
Posted by hawaiisurf at December 13, 2004 04:04 PM