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January 01, 2005
4 occ 5 Foot Left Barrels All Day Long!
What a great New Years Day!!!!
Surfed 2 sessions at a spot code named "navy's." We surfed it last night and it was good, so we returned first thing.
I'm calling it an epic session. 4-5 foot full barrel lefts, heaving on the peak, warping lefts, pipeline style spitting at times. I ended up getting about 4 good barrels and bunch of quickies.
The first session Ashe and I had it to ourselves for almost 3 hours. Sometime the wind was blowing like 50mph, straight offshore. My first 4-5 waves I just ate sh-t on, cartwheeling down the face, etc. The 6'2" I was on was too small I think, even though I got my best barrel on it. Had to go in and change boards after an especially good wipeout where my board slipped out from under me because the wave was so steep, I landed on my board then went over the falls. We only got out of the water because we were beat.
Second session wasn't as good because more people came out, but the wind died out too.
My friend Mark came and checked, took some pics of Chris Cordio:
Wipeout Sequence(click for full sized picture)
Posted by hawaiisurf at January 1, 2005 10:47 PM