Hawaii Surf Journal: January 2005 Archives

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January 27, 2005

Inside Pinballs, 3-4 foot lanis - Surf Marathon!

Adder and I combed the NS today for surf, and found some juice, we did look everywhere.

Started out at pinballs 4-6 foot on the inside shelf. Some waves were really ledgey, others shouldery. SOme 8+ footers were more on the outside rolling threw to the inside. We traded off on the inside and watched the big board guys on the outside get a few connecters to the inside. Fun was had by all.

Had lunch and looked at sunset, which was reaaally good 6-8, 40 + guys out.

After lunch we wanted something a little smaller, so lanis was the call. Pretty west, so it was hollower than usual I thought. Pretty uncrowded out there, good vibes and smiles getting thrown around by everyone.....Fun 3-4 footers coming in, it seemed to be getting better at the end but we were done at that point, we had logged like 4-5 hours in the water.

Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:26 PM | Comments (0)

January 23, 2005

Glassy Longboard Waves 3 - 4 foot

Jumped in for a quicky before my wife went to teach yoga, LB'ed out front in perfectly glassy 3-4 foot pretty slopey walls. No leash, I lose my board on my first wave and it goes almost aaaaall the way in, like 300 yards away..whew. no problem.

Decide to wait for a set, it's mine! wait, guy right in my line need to straighten out - doh! Did catch a few other fun-uns though!

Good sesh for my cause I'm getting over a little cold

Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:55 AM | Comments (0)

January 17, 2005

Thrills and Spills Towsurfing Adventure

I'm sorry this is so long, just out of the water still buzzing and I wanted to get it on down on paper, er computer?

Bruce and I dawn patrol towed this morning, last night the buoys were reading between 20-25 feet and 14-20 second periods......Figured we would go out on another "exploratory" mission.

We got to the harbor about 20 minutes before it was even light out, I could see all the other cars with skis in the parking lot for the Tow In world championships.

We dropped out ski and this surge came that was making the water level range from 3 feet below the dock to about 2-3 inches above the edge of the dock at times. I had laid my board down on the edge of the dock and when this one big surge came it floated about 4 feet into the parking lot! This same surge must have hit the Tow contest admistrators stuff, because we saw this waterproof box with all the contest papers in it floating in the darkness and returned it to them...(we saved the contest!! ha!...)

Anyways as we motored out it was just beginning to get light. There were clouds in the sky and a light sideshore bump on the water... It was a witches's brew of rip currents hitting waves in the channel was even bigger than the Eddie day I thought....

Avalanche looked pretty crappy, so we kept going. Ended up at this left, where we were all alone except this one other team who watched us for a while then left. Waves were in the 8-12 range with some 15? foot sets. Most waves were breking by the peak but the big ones would swing wide and break more in the middle.....

We watched 2-3 sets go by, and then rode all the way in and back out around through the channel that is on the opposite side of the wave. It was nice because you could see there was deeper water on the inside to run to if caught inside.

I towed Bruce into his first wave, then actually saw him smile. This is a big deal because he has surfed so many good waves, and he was actually stoked, yes! Got him 2 good ones including a super long one, then it was my turn.

Got my 2 waves, nice 10 footers or so, long rides. Super stoked to ride those so we agreed I would tow him into one more. By this time then the winds were side onshore and really beginning to blow.

While trying to get that last big set wave (Brude wanted the biggest one he said) he let go, but missed the wave a few times. After he missed that last one, I went back real quick and picked him up onto the sled, and right then probaly one of the biggest sets of the day came.

I started racing for the shoulder, but then I realized I wasn't going to make it at the last second so I turned in towards shore and the the ski just slid out!! The weight from having someone on the sled made it happen I suppose.... also I think Bruce thought the wave was going to hit us so he fell/jumped off the back and I raced in. I looked back I just in time to see him and the board going over the falls on like a 12 footer (at least).....what an image!

More waves came so I was forced to go around to the channel, when I get back he has this 3 inch gash in his foot, the board had hit him going over the falls.....

But he was stoked on the session anyways! He told me the wave after the first one, the next one held him down the longest he has ever been held down for.....nice!

Even with his injury he was stoked as hell on the session, and so was I except for I am worried about his foot. There is a nice crush in the rail with some skin and hair....

On the way in it had gotten much more choppy, and as we passed the contest at avalanche it looked really bumpy and not to good at all. There were a bunch of boats and skis cruising. I said what's up to my friend Todd Robertson who was sitting in the channel. We were back at the harbor by 9:30..

Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:57 AM | Comments (0)

January 15, 2005

West swell overhead solo session

Well it did turn onshore right when my wife got home. But it turned offshore again after the squall line/strom passed over. Startd looking around 3, I could see the swell was really starting to hit at some spots. Wind was offshore, but really strong.

Went down to eotr, inconsistent 3-4 foot, nobody out. Checked a couple other close by spots, but went back there.

Paddled out and had a magic session, it kept getting better..... 4 - 5 foot looong lefts, like 100 yards on the good ones. Got several tubes, for the first hour I was solo, then my friend paddled out. Really west, and glassy for the mosty part, the cliffs blocked the wind.

Overall, a very happy camper////

Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:30 PM | Comments (0)

January 04, 2005

Quick East Side Run, Small Perfect Waves 1-2

Got itchy for a surf so I chanced the easside. 7th looked like crap. GI was the most perfect.........1 occ 2 foot you've ever seen. Was low on time so I went out there for a quicky, sprint paddle in and out. Perfect shape, but only knee-waist-shoulder high max. actually got a perfect little cylinder, but tiny!

Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:03 PM | Comments (0)

January 01, 2005

4 occ 5 Foot Left Barrels All Day Long!

What a great New Years Day!!!!

Surfed 2 sessions at a spot code named "navy's." We surfed it last night and it was good, so we returned first thing.

I'm calling it an epic session. 4-5 foot full barrel lefts, heaving on the peak, warping lefts, pipeline style spitting at times. I ended up getting about 4 good barrels and bunch of quickies.

The first session Ashe and I had it to ourselves for almost 3 hours. Sometime the wind was blowing like 50mph, straight offshore. My first 4-5 waves I just ate sh-t on, cartwheeling down the face, etc. The 6'2" I was on was too small I think, even though I got my best barrel on it. Had to go in and change boards after an especially good wipeout where my board slipped out from under me because the wave was so steep, I landed on my board then went over the falls. We only got out of the water because we were beat.

Second session wasn't as good because more people came out, but the wind died out too.

My friend Mark came and checked, took some pics of Chris Cordio: