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April 30, 2005
Epic day of Northwest Swell surf
Just had two marathon sessions at eotr. By myself for the first hour, it was was a little messy at first, but just kept getting better and better. About 4-5 occ bigger, sunny and NO WIND. First session was two hous soid, two guys came out in the middle hour. Saw my friend arrive right as I was leaving and he gave me a beer and some greasy chicken and we went back out. Even better the second session, I pulled in a couple times, never came out but what a view! That second session my arms were aching bad but I kept going back out for more.
My second to last wave I pulled into this about 5 footer and traveled like 3 seconds in there, it was really windy from the lip draining next to me before I got smashed.....very stoked.
3 minute video http://www.surfguidehawaii.com/video/onetree.wmv
Posted by hawaiisurf at April 30, 2005 12:15 AM