May 10, 2005
Chuns Reef, Dog Bite
Longboarded chuns around 1-2 pm. Waist to chest high, was catching chke waves at first then it just slowed down. Also a surf school came out and the instructor was pushing the people onto the waves, dropping them in on me on a few. Wel, I did get some long rides and a hang five on a inside bowl.
Check this she-ot: After surf I was hanging out at the park by my house with my daughter on my lap on the swing when this dog charged from across the park from behind me all nuts and just chomped down on my left leg out of no where!!!!! Left 3 punctures, pretty scarey experience, but I'm fine, just back from the hospital, wahiwa. Only 3.5 hours in and out with a x-ray (to make sure no dog teeth broke off in my leg).
Watch out for rabid dogs!!!!!
May 05, 2005
South Swell 4-5 foot nice warm waves
South swell foreast to peak so i dawned it at a spot that's is close to my house but I had to drive far to get to. Really fun when I first paddled out, just me and about 6 locals. I got a few fun ones then it got crowded and Janie O'brien paddled out. Here is a pic:
May 02, 2005
Surprise Fun Evening Surfing
Country was too big, and choppy so we went mokes side. Almost went to eotr, but it was a little big I thought, and too much paddling for a beginner(but it looked nicxe) ended up at this other spot Ive only surfed once which is usually a little smaller than the surrounding area. In my mind this wasn't going to be a serious surf, just get wet and take my friend out.
Damm it was good, what a surprise! Perfectly rippable 1-3 loooong lefts, extremely shredable waves, 4 manuver waves, kind of like sui's on steriods. Caught wave after wave until dark. My friend the beginner was in the way once or twice but he caught one wave and was stoked too. About 8 guys out trading off, some of the best small waves Ive surfed.
I've got a new spot!!