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June 21, 2005
Double overhead sets, 1/2 mile long lefts
Saturday wanted south swell so took a drive, was surprised to see only 3 people out in 3-4 foot glass. Surfed for a while on my sortboard then went in, rested, and came out on the LB. Kind of hard to catch, but when you did it was a long ride every time. I actually had one wave that was so long my legs were aching at the end.
Went out again same spot 8-10:30 sunday, just see long, roping south swell lines. Slow at times, but glassy overhead to waaay overhead. I caught a few waves that were around 1/2 mile long, when I went to paddle back out the guys in the lineup were just little specks in the distance.
Nice one, nobody on it, typical for the last two days:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 12:28 AM | Comments (0)
June 11, 2005
South Swell Holding Strong....
After much deliberation and stories of mass crowds in town , went to the Wessside. Surfed from about 12 - 2:30, sooooo fun. The south swell was making the some of the lefts line up for almost 100-150 yards, with a steep racy wall on some, Head high to 3 feet over on the bigger ones. Actually it was the medium sized ones that were the best and would line up along the reef and peel just right. It was a bit inconsistent at times, but there was a period of about an hour where I was catching wave after good wave.
I had this one wave that I took off, raced the steep wall for about 50 yards, pulled into a quick little tube, then raced it again for 50 yards, and pulled in again!!! I probaly caught 4-5 100 yard long rides, and many others as well not as long.
Completly sasisfied with the session, went in thirsty and tired.
I took a few pics after surf, but I didn't really get a set. This pic is what most of the waves looked like, but 1-2 feet bigger:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:52 PM | Comments (0)