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July 20, 2005
Loooong South Swell Lefts, Finally!
Broke my dry spell and Went to one of my favorite South swell retreats. Loong lefts, sunny and glassy with my friend Rex. About 3-4 foot, head high to overhead. Rode the longboard and had a blast, got the longest noseride ever(for me), and pulled into a feathery tube way up on the nose too.
Highlight was my last wave, rode it from outside aaaall the way to the beach, it connected and I staightened out over the final inside reef into the river where it got deep, by the car and parking lot.
In the picture below I made a line with an arrow showing about where I got that long ride, the line. I measured it with the google earth tool it said .2 of a mile. I may have over extrended the line out farther than the actual ride. Pretty cool you can do that measurement even.
High tide I could see "minefields" start to fire with a couple guys out getting nice lefts.
Posted by hawaiisurf at July 20, 2005 10:10 PM