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September 13, 2005
First country swell of the season! Jockos 4-6 foot
jox about 8-10am. bout 4-6, seemed to be dropping. Tons of current, constant paddling to keep position. Really only got one wave, but it made the whole session worth it for me.
One of those stacking sets where I barely made it over the first 3 waves, I was farther out and over from everyone, then the last one just came right to me...I got sort of a pit then it walled all the way through. Neil said he got three pics, cant wait to see!!!
Blahla was out catching some on his 6'1", nice to meet ya!!!
Stoked on my one wave, and being actually slightly nervous at first from the size when I was caught inside, havent seen waves that size for months. ....once I caught my good wave I was able to just relax and enjoy the size.......:)
Posted by hawaiisurf at September 13, 2005 12:17 PM