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October 28, 2005
5 second head dip
Went on a search yesterday around 2. The waves looked nice at sinal's, maybe 3-4 occ slightly bigger n-swell, but the crowd was too much for me. the lot was overflowed like 10 cars on each side. I can't surf with 1000 hungry surfers....
Mega and I hopped in a little bit down at a much smaller spot. only 2 occ 3, but nobody out, and the occasional nice left bowl. I did get one pretty schweet tube in front of mega. Also a funny moment went I tried really hard to pull in, but ended up doing a 5 second head dip.....Not too bad! kinda wished I would have stayed out longer.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:24 AM | Comments (0)
October 24, 2005
Sunny Glassy Waves Run
Went for a surf today, had to drive somewhere smaller and glassier than where I was.
Scored 2-4 fun lefts, kind of backing off but would start to zipper more when you got near the rocks and cliff on the inside.
This spot down a ways looked good when I saw these pics. It was hard to see it from where I was...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 08:11 PM | Comments (0)
4-8 foot North Swell Lanis on a 6'8"
Real fun session for me today at sinals, saw 1/2 the bb out there, kelly got there when I did and I saw Slap and Bud when I left.
Nice direction N swell, real good, long ones coming through at times. I saw like 3 guys get barrels, which is way more than usual at Lanis. Probaly DOH - maybe TOH on the biggest sets out the back. The end bowl was way smaller.
I borrowed my friend's thick 6'8" and it worked great for me, most of the session I was consistently getting waves from the outside peak. A little in and over from the guys farthest out seemed to do the trick for me. I was doing great even with the crowd until "The Roadblock" came out and found my spot. Right away dropped in on me twice, I was ready to go in anyways. I'm sure you guys will know who I'm talking about, he snakes EVERYONE ruthlessly, big guy, long hair, bright colored board. Always out at Bowls and Rockies.
Stoked, I never knew I could ride such a small board in DOH plus, I was always on a 7'2" or something before.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 05:00 PM | Comments (0)
October 17, 2005
Tow In Fun - Long Overhead Walls
Woke up early and drove around for an hour checking it, but it wasn't looking that good anywhere I went. End of the road and back, everywhere looked morning sickness - kinda shatty to me.
Luckily my friend and I decided to try tow. We both got a bunch of long, slopy walls, and 1-2 solid double-overheaders each.
The first one I got was memorable for me: Let go of he rope like 5 seconds or more before it even started to break. Then I was faded so far back I could see the section like 150 feet ahead, but I was just pumping the DOH wall with the tow board, made the section just righty, and then did like 8 cutties all the way to the inside.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:17 PM | Comments (0)
October 13, 2005
Sunset Beach Season Opener
Biggest swell of the season so far, I went to sunset in the morning.
Here are a few pics: (click for full size)
This is how you bail your board through the lip in big waves if your board is too big to duck-dive:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:04 PM | Comments (0)
October 07, 2005
Screen Captures Of Surf Video
My friend was shooting video the other day for a little while, he got this sequence of me almost getting barreled, made some screen captures for me.
Really didn't think I was making this drop for a second:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 03:02 PM | Comments (0)
October 06, 2005
Epic South Swell Session.
Nice!!!! Everyone scored, more or less... Surfed somwhere I like to go on South Swells, my best session of the summer. like yesterday but bigger and more consistent. I would call it 4-5 occ 6 :shock: . .... I was slightly over gunned on a 7'2" but it was needed almost for the strong offshores and suck-up drops. but was catching waves consistently the whole time pretty much. Everyone kept getting pushed off the back of waves on the drop by the wind.
Also scored two in and outs, and one was on like a 5-6 footer, best barrel ive had in years, right at the end. it was all misty in there too.....The barreling ones were inside and deep so you were taking a chance sitting in there waiting for them.
So exhausted at the end, I stayed out like 3.5 hours, mostly my two friends Christian and Fred out only, but three other guys came out at the end for a while.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:08 PM | Comments (0)
October 05, 2005
South Swell Delight, Uncrowded Overhead Waves
South swell today at an outer island getaway, never more than 3-4 people out the whole time. Super long lulls, 1/2 hour at times, but then it would start pumping again.
Different Spot:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:40 PM | Comments (0)