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October 06, 2005
Epic South Swell Session.
Nice!!!! Everyone scored, more or less... Surfed somwhere I like to go on South Swells, my best session of the summer. like yesterday but bigger and more consistent. I would call it 4-5 occ 6 :shock: . .... I was slightly over gunned on a 7'2" but it was needed almost for the strong offshores and suck-up drops. but was catching waves consistently the whole time pretty much. Everyone kept getting pushed off the back of waves on the drop by the wind.
Also scored two in and outs, and one was on like a 5-6 footer, best barrel ive had in years, right at the end. it was all misty in there too.....The barreling ones were inside and deep so you were taking a chance sitting in there waiting for them.
So exhausted at the end, I stayed out like 3.5 hours, mostly my two friends Christian and Fred out only, but three other guys came out at the end for a while.
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 6, 2005 10:08 PM