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June 04, 2006
A Pic, a Great Surf. And a Board Rack
Been hitting the lesser surfed side lately, the wild side. Day before yesterday had a few good waves, but it was a cat and mouse game. Below is one pic from that day. Sets were bigger:
(Click For Full Size Pic)
Then yesterday my friend called and said he was looking at 4-5 foot nobody out at the left. I jumped in my van and an hour later I was in the water. Great session for me, it was consistent and I was catching a wave off almost every set. My 7'0" was working perfectly in the powerfull yet crumbly waves. I got almost 15 waves probaly, and didn't fall on hardly any. I had a bunch of straight up off the tops on waaay overghead waves ( I don't think Ive done that before), it was just lining up so nice, it was easy to set up for that huge top turn. Also memorable for me was a late drop on the biggest wave of the day where I slid sideays down the face then re-connected. That one was pushing doh....adranaline on that one...
Left as happy as you can get, arms toast after three hours.
I saw Bud made a shaping shed and board holder, so I got inspired and made one too, using his designs:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:05 PM | Comments (0)