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October 18, 2006
4-6 Foot Uncrowded Glass, Ahhhhh
Great session this morning with Lance, Liam, his cousin Danny, Christian, Jesse and Bud.
My phone was ringing up off the hook this morning as everyone was checking various spots. Eventually my "coconut telegraph," let me know there was hardly anybody surfing the north shore because only a few places were good, like pipe and sunset, and it was pretty big.
We met at a secret spot and had it to ourselves all morning, dead glass for a while then a slight onshore.
I got caught inside by foolishly missing the first wave of the set, then just ragdolled to the inside by the next one breaking in front of me. I actually came up dizzy after one spun me around underwater like 6 times before letting me up.
I did score three fun barrells, but the I couldn't make it out of the one wI was deepest, and another one I got clipped coming out by the lip.
I swear thses pics don't really do it justice:
Bud BT sequence:
Christian, going deep:
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 18, 2006 02:57 PM