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October 18, 2006
4-6 Foot Uncrowded Glass, Ahhhhh
Great session this morning with Lance, Liam, his cousin Danny, Christian, Jesse and Bud.
My phone was ringing up off the hook this morning as everyone was checking various spots. Eventually my "coconut telegraph," let me know there was hardly anybody surfing the north shore because only a few places were good, like pipe and sunset, and it was pretty big.
We met at a secret spot and had it to ourselves all morning, dead glass for a while then a slight onshore.
I got caught inside by foolishly missing the first wave of the set, then just ragdolled to the inside by the next one breaking in front of me. I actually came up dizzy after one spun me around underwater like 6 times before letting me up.
I did score three fun barrells, but the I couldn't make it out of the one wI was deepest, and another one I got clipped coming out by the lip.
I swear thses pics don't really do it justice:
Bud BT sequence:
Christian, going deep:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:57 PM | Comments (0)
4-6 Foot Uncrowded Glass, Ahhhhh
Great session this morning with Lance, Liam, his cousin Danny, Christian, Jesse and Bud.
My phone was ringing up off the hook this morning as everyone was checking various spots. Eventually my "coconut telegraph," let me know there was hardly anybody surfing the north shore because only a few places were good, like pipe and sunset, and it was pretty big.
We met at a secret spot and had it to ourselves all morning, dead glass for a while then a slight onshore.
I got caught inside by foolishly missing the first wave of the set, then just ragdolled to the inside by the next one breaking in front of me. I actually came up dizzy after one spun me around underwater like 6 times before letting me up.
I did score three fun barrells, but the I couldn't make it out of the one wI was deepest, and another one I got clipped coming out by the lip.
I swear thses pics don't really do it justice:
Bud BT sequence:
Christian, going deep:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 02:57 PM | Comments (0)
October 11, 2006
Pretty Epic Day of Surf!!
I haven't been updateing my surf log, but from this day on, I am commited!!
When it heard 4-6 foot and no wind, I knew exactly where to go. A rarely surfed left that only gets good on certain conditions. I met my friend Jesse there at 8:15, and it wasn't long before we were rushing to get out there.
I actually couted the number of waves I got today after my 4th in like 15 minutes. The amazing total was 15 waves in my first hour, 7 in the second. The first hour was just Jesse and I, the second hour 6 people finally came out and it slowed down.
Every one of those waves was pretty good, with at least one full cutback, and I got one barrel too, which i came out of. Hard not to be satisfied with a session like that.
I got one great pic of a beautifull, empty wave before I went out:
(Click pics for full size)
Also one pic of my friend Liam doing a crazy backside cutty:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 03:02 PM | Comments (0)