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October 11, 2006
Pretty Epic Day of Surf!!
I haven't been updateing my surf log, but from this day on, I am commited!!
When it heard 4-6 foot and no wind, I knew exactly where to go. A rarely surfed left that only gets good on certain conditions. I met my friend Jesse there at 8:15, and it wasn't long before we were rushing to get out there.
I actually couted the number of waves I got today after my 4th in like 15 minutes. The amazing total was 15 waves in my first hour, 7 in the second. The first hour was just Jesse and I, the second hour 6 people finally came out and it slowed down.
Every one of those waves was pretty good, with at least one full cutback, and I got one barrel too, which i came out of. Hard not to be satisfied with a session like that.
I got one great pic of a beautifull, empty wave before I went out:
(Click pics for full size)
Also one pic of my friend Liam doing a crazy backside cutty:
Posted by hawaiisurf at October 11, 2006 03:02 PM