« October 2006 | Main | December 2006 »
November 19, 2006
4-5 foot long rippable lefts
-10:30 am. eotr was warbly, but some real good ones (considering the crowd) coming through the outside reef and the middle too, about 4-5 foot, with a few 6 foot closeout sets. Only me plus 1-3 friends, and a 1 other regular.
Highlight was 2 barrels, and the wave count was high too, so gratefull to surf a warm no shirt session of lefts like this one. Loving life....Not every wave was perfect, but the good ones would come every 10-15 minutes, and they were good for at least an overhead turn or two on the shortboard.
At 10:30 the trades blew it out completly, but we were happy
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:53 PM | Comments (0)
November 17, 2006
4-5 foot strong right walls, almost alone!!
same spot for the third day in a row. Once again it looked shiity from the beach. This time it turned into 4-5 glass, just me and 1-2 other guys, cleaned up big time. So insane, i was catching a wave in every set, it was several feet overhead, and then the sunset was just orange and purple. Unbeleivable session, dont even mind not surfing today after that one, watching my kiddo, looked good everywhere though....
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:54 PM | Comments (0)
November 16, 2006
Fun rights all by myself, very rippable
Went back to the same place as yesterday, 9-10:30 . Lightest east breeze giving it a little texture, but it was bigger than yesterday. Just me and two randoms again. A little inconsistent, but when they came you got a nice head-oh right wall. Overall super stoked to catch a bunch of fun waves when there are 40 people at rockies duking it out for about the same size, and I was at a beach that was empty.
Sunny and warm too...
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:56 PM | Comments (0)
November 15, 2006
Exremely fun 3 foot walls
1-3 pm, overcast,no wind shoulder to head high rights. When I got there I looked out and it looked kind of marginal, nobody out at all. shows how different it can be from the water. Anyways just me and then these 2 guys joined me. Hard to line up, but I was using my lineups and managed to catch choke super fun waves. Couple waves were like head high, 3-4 manuver waves, nice steep right walls. Extremely rippable shape.
I was laughing cause the two other guys were sitting like 20 feet outside of me and I was catching wave after wave and there were getting almost none. They were complaining to each other how shitty it was and I was reaping, such a beautiful session. Even on days when you think its gonna suck sometimes you get surprised.
My two friends surfed out the same spot in the morning when the tsunami hit. They said the reef drained dry 3 times, then went high tide every three minutes.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:57 PM | Comments (0)
November 13, 2006
Navie's comes to life, a little bit anyways
eve got out to "navies", very close to armies, but only gets good 1-3 times a year. Can't really say it was all time, but it was inconsistent head-oh on the bombs, and barreling when they came in. Saw the 1 other guy out get a nice tuuube, I got 2 but no exits. overall stoked with a very short 1 hour session. Dead glass, sunny, light offshore, 3-4 pm.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 09:58 PM | Comments (0)
November 12, 2006
Beautiful see through 2 foot waves over shallow reef
Went with the familia to a nearby beach, brought the LB for the hell of it, even though the report was 1-2. Crystal clear, see through water, sandy beach looked like a corona commercial. There was a waist high wave breaking outside, on a shallow reef, maybe a 3 minute paddle out. Even though it was tiny, it was amazing when you ride the wave over foot deep water and see the reef passing under you clearly, end then gliding over this sandy little 10 foot deep channel with fish swimming around under you. Sooo beautiful. Amazing the stoke you can get from waist high when the conditions are just right.
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:01 PM | Comments (0)
November 08, 2006
Lani's 2-3 occ 4, better than expected
pastures had great shape this afternoon 2-4pm, rights and lefts working real good. looked crowded from the beach, but when I got out it was pretty spread and the skill level wasnt too high, I got plenny. unexpected oh clean waves!!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 10:06 PM | Comments (0)
November 06, 2006
Moonrise
Yesterday we BBqed in nmokuleia and the most beautiful moonrise occured:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 07:18 PM | Comments (0)
Glassy West Swell 3-5 foot lefts all morning long
Went down to a spot I love, long lefts reeling like a pointbreak. It was a little more crowded and inconsistent than usual today, but I still got my fair share. Got two good pics, one of an empty wave, another from the overhead view:
Click for full sized Hawaiian secret Spot Pics:
Posted by hawaiisurf at 06:51 PM | Comments (0)