« January 2007 | Main | August 2007 »
February 16, 2007
Two Wave Hold Down!!!
Lightning never strikes twice, today was no exception, but that's ok. Seomtimes it's better that way.
Today started out the harbor and it didn't look glassy like yesterday, or as big. Wanted one spot, but there were a few paddlers. Went back to the same left as yesterday but completly different story, half the size, and pretty blown....Caught a few and bailed back to the first were the paddlers went in and it was still 6-10 foot. Caught 4 great waves, 6-8 footers all the way across and clean on the face....yesss
Set of the day rears up and its mine, about 10 foot, I get whipped in perfect but I'm too confident so I fade deeper, big mistake!! Just get exploded in the bowl, lip right behind/on top of me (not sure which) and launches me way in the air, then I just get thrashed for a long while. I feel myself all the way on the bottom, so i keep relaxing waiting for it to stop pushing me down, but I'm just pinned to the bottom by a strong current underwater. Finally I decide to push off the bottom and take like 6 swims up before I see light, a few more swims and finally make it to the surface and get a half split second of air before the next one tags me....i came up seeing stars, but throughly stoked over what was almost a two wave hold down. :)
Banged up knee somewhere in there, its sore, but STILL STOKED!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 04:39 PM | Comments (0)
February 15, 2007
Epic, Big Blue Second and Third Reef Tow-In Perfection
Got up predawn, outthe harbor around 7...soo glassy this morning....This one left was great when we first got there, I got two closeout 10 footers, then a barrel on a 7? footer, it was breaking so good. Fun cut short by paddlers, but we both got 2 epic ones first.
Went down and shot two sets on vid at himmis, it was thirs reef I think, anyways you'll see the vid in a few days....
After that went down to outside alli rock, sunny, blue water 7-12 foot beautiful, only one other to share at first. I got this one 10-12 footer right that felt giant, and I was under the lip on it for a moment, super smooth face. Every time I think about that wave I smile...Also driver error made me wipe and the board went all the way in, we drove to the beach at marijuanas and I walked down and found it at leftovers keyhole paddle out. Thank god not another lost board.
As we came it it looked real choppy and sucky at the contest, but we scored!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at 03:42 PM | Comments (0)