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February 16, 2007
Two Wave Hold Down!!!
Lightning never strikes twice, today was no exception, but that's ok. Seomtimes it's better that way.
Today started out the harbor and it didn't look glassy like yesterday, or as big. Wanted one spot, but there were a few paddlers. Went back to the same left as yesterday but completly different story, half the size, and pretty blown....Caught a few and bailed back to the first were the paddlers went in and it was still 6-10 foot. Caught 4 great waves, 6-8 footers all the way across and clean on the face....yesss
Set of the day rears up and its mine, about 10 foot, I get whipped in perfect but I'm too confident so I fade deeper, big mistake!! Just get exploded in the bowl, lip right behind/on top of me (not sure which) and launches me way in the air, then I just get thrashed for a long while. I feel myself all the way on the bottom, so i keep relaxing waiting for it to stop pushing me down, but I'm just pinned to the bottom by a strong current underwater. Finally I decide to push off the bottom and take like 6 swims up before I see light, a few more swims and finally make it to the surface and get a half split second of air before the next one tags me....i came up seeing stars, but throughly stoked over what was almost a two wave hold down. :)
Banged up knee somewhere in there, its sore, but STILL STOKED!!!
Posted by hawaiisurf at February 16, 2007 04:39 PM